Here is my review of the Miller table that is linked to in the first post.
1. Product arrived quickly and well packaged.
2 . Limited assembly is required. (less than 5 minutes)
3. The craftsmanship is good, with one exception. I had to send the table top back, because the holes for the vials were not threaded. The seller paid for return shipping and repaired and returned it very quickly.
Here is the method I used. I classified the concentrates from my sluice though a 4, 50 and 100 mesh screen.
I panned the -4 to +50 down to about two teaspoons of material. I then added about 1 teaspoon of wet material to the table and worked it with the brush provided until I separated the gold from black sands. +50 gold is quite easy to separate. It took me about 10 minutes per teaspoon full.
I panned the +100 to -50 material down to about 4 teaspoons and lessened the angle of the table with the adjustments posts. Again, I added about one teaspoon of material and worked it until the gold was separated.
For the -100 material, I did not pan it at all, I simply ran 1 teaspoon at a time until I had separated the gold from the black sands.
Here are some photos I took while running -100 material.
You can see the line of gold starting to form as the black sands slowly trail away.
Click to view attachmentHere you can see a fair amount of -100 gold in the sands.
Click to view attachmentThe last photo is the -100 gold mostly cleaned of blacks sands.
Click to view attachmentIn summary, you need good lighting and decent eyesight to use this table, as it relies on you being able to see the gold and push it back up if it starts to trail away with the black sands. For the most part, you can walk away and the gold will stay put as it relies on you brushing and dabbing the brush to get the black sands to move. Classifying is a must, and panning down your various mesh sizes helps speed up the process. There is a learning curve and a bit of an art form involved, but all in all, it's a useful tool for separating fine gold from black sands.