For the first time prospectors or those wanting to try their hand at panning.......
What gear would you recomend for new prospectors to take along on their first panning adventures?
Digging gear, clothes/weather gear etc.

for the first time people i wouldnt recommend they buy anything initially! instead go to some local club meeting and join it! then go out with someone or a lot of people to see whats ava. and how to use the pans and equipment BEFORE they buy anything. even a gold pan. there maybe a pan that they like much better than the first one they would buy. find out what they'd like first, then buy what works best for them!

... a rabbit's foot!

Swizz i carry that and a Buckeye from Ohio and it dont help much,OR maybe it does and i dont realize it yet!:)

Ok, let's assume that they have in fact seen a couple panners and sluices and also joined their club of choice. Now they're ready to give it a try on a field adventure...........what kind of gear would be the handy stuff to have for the first time out?

For basic creek or river sampling, which I like to do at the ranch, not much equipment needed, I try to keep it simple...
#2 shovel
a few 5-gal buckets
Hand sluice (I like a Keene A52 modified or especially Angus MacKirk... quick and easy with great recovery)
Pick, Spud, or Crowbar for moving larger rocks
1/2" classifier
plastic garden scoop (for feeding sluice the minus-1/2" material)
one or two pans
Small horse-hair paintbrush (like from a kid's painting kit)... this picks up micron Gold VERY well from the pan
and a vial to put that Gold into... fill the vial with water, dab the brush in the pan to pick up Gold, and dab it in the vial of water... the gold will drop into the vial like magic
..... hydration and snacks too!

and don't forget that rabbit's foot
Buckeye's from Ohio are super bad luck, especially if you're from Michigan

HAHAHA,yep im finding that out!

First, LEARN HOW TO PAN!
Second, a simple plastic gold pan, a small gardening trowel and some lead bird/skeet shot from a shotgun shell.
Third, practice practice practice.

Then when you have the technique down, find someone experienced in panning and fine tune your panning.
Don't hold back from panning on whatever creeks are available to you. Just make sure you have permission to pan there.

And someday we'll teach Dan how to pan!

Hello from Texas. To the seasoned Colorado mining veterans posting here, really do need info input for some very, very newbie member questions, please.
Referring to the Swizz posting of Sept. 16, 2012, 07:54 pm:
1. Pan units: “…two pans.” – what are the more important size or configuration considerations for the first and then a second?
2. Pan material: Is there a better pan material to be had than the typical hard plastic? Saw a pan with a rectangle depression constructed in the bottom, adjacent to the lowest riffle. Is this of any meaningful use and how is it to be used? Acquired a very large antique, brass pan, with no riffles – leave it home?
3. Pan edge riffles: For any given pan diameter, do you go for fewer and deeper or a larger number of smaller riffles?
4. Shovel Size: Only taking one. Long handle or short? Broad head or narrow? Fold-up or fixed? #2 shovel is?

More general questions, if I may:
5. In-field panning: This is a serious question. Entering a new area with no prior info. What is a range of the minimum amount of “gold in your pan” say for one pan’s worth that suggests to you its worth the effort to stay there and work it or move on to another location? I do not yet have any calibration for that amount.
6. Location: Perhaps not here and now, but it would be immensely helpful for a tutorial on how to read a stream panning location, both in a macro and close-up sense.
Right now, my only way to decide where to go is look for signs of where others have been.
7. I have only been to Vic’s and Fairplay Town locations, just once last September. While there, I was told by some “locals” that: “Colorado gold is fine gold” and also “You have to see black sand in order to hope to find gold.” Could someone briefly explain those statements. Maybe the black sand question is part of #6.
8. References: Book recommendations?

I have more questions, but don’t want to overextend too much on this posting. Again, please understand - what might sound like humorous put-ons is really some fundamental questions for which the answers are not too often put into “how-to” articles and books.
Thanks for your patience and feedback.

Hi, and welcome to CP Forums!
There are no questions too basic and we're glad to help.
I'll do my best to answer your questions.
1. Pan units: “…two pans.” – what are the more important size or configuration considerations for the first and then a second?
Personal preference, you'll have to experiment and decide. The most popular size is 14" and that is my personal choice.
2. Pan material: Is there a better pan material to be had than the typical hard plastic? Saw a pan with a rectangle depression constructed in the bottom, adjacent to the lowest riffle. Is this of any meaningful use and how is it to be used? Acquired a very large antique, brass pan, with no riffles – leave it home?
In my opinion (and most) plastic is the best... but again, personal preference. Color of the pan also plays a role. Most prefer green or blue (I favor green). Black would seem to be a logical choice but in reality it is terrible, too much contrast and hides the black sands. The pan you mention with the rectangular trap (I believe) is called "The Gold Saver" made by Roaring Camp Mining Co. I own one of these and don't like it as much as the standard pans but you may like it... personal preference.
3. Pan edge riffles: For any given pan diameter, do you go for fewer and deeper or a larger number of smaller riffles?
Personal pref again.... I favor the 14" Proline "Professional" which has 5 large riffles on 1/4 of the pan wall. I think it's just a matter of what you purchase and get used to.
4. Shovel Size: Only taking one. Long handle or short? Broad head or narrow? Fold-up or fixed? #2 shovel is?
#2 shovel is the typical shovel size you find at the hardware store.... same size that you see highway workers leaning on when you drive by a federally funded hwy project. It is the most common size used for sampling but if you're digging in a tight area (between two huge rocks or something) use what fits, maybe smaller if needed.

More general questions, if I may:
5. In-field panning: This is a serious question. Entering a new area with no prior info. What is a range of the minimum amount of “gold in your pan” say for one pan’s worth that suggests to you its worth the effort to stay there and work it or move on to another location? I do not yet have any calibration for that amount.
That's up to you. If I find "nothing" or just a speck or two in the pan... I may stay and dig deeper for a better sample or move on. Depends largely on your expectations for the area. If you are "sampling"... you are collecting data. Each sampling is valuable information and should be recorded.
6. Location: Perhaps not here and now, but it would be immensely helpful for a tutorial on how to read a stream panning location, both in a macro and close-up sense.
Right now, my only way to decide where to go is look for signs of where others have been.
Books have been written on this. Much to cover... the basics include 'banks of inside curves' and 'behind (downstream side of) large boulders' but there is much much more to it than that. YouTube is a tremendous resource for video tutorials on "how to read a stream". I recommend literature and videos to get started with this and fine tune to your location.
7. I have only been to Vic’s and Fairplay Town locations, just once last September. While there, I was told by some “locals” that: “Colorado gold is fine gold” and also “You have to see black sand in order to hope to find gold.” Could someone briefly explain those statements. Maybe the black sand question is part of #6.
"Fine Gold" can mean colors that are anywhere from micron to sub-picker. Black sand is usually a good sign when panning. Black sands are relatively heavy and typically tells you that you are digging in a place that collects "heavies". Gold is very heavy. Not every area that has black sand will have Gold but it's a good indicator of heavies collecting in a given area.
8. References: Book recommendations?
So many to choose from! It will depend largely on what you'd like to focus on. Here is a link that has MANY geological pubs to choose from: USGS Geological Bookstore

Thank you for the quick response.
Swizz, I am not trying to be confrontational or impertinent, but the true beginner, for some time, does not (cannot) yet have any “personal preferences” (pp). In a computer sense, that person essentially has a blank miners database that would likely be filled through a number of gold recovery, in-field expeditions. For those of us far removed from the opportunity for frequent, database filling, we look for that which accelerates the process, i.e., high rate data transfer from credible (mentoring) sources.
So, staying on fundamental equipment, here is what I take from a very representative individual with experience-based pp:
1. First Pan: 14” diameter green or blue (2nd), hard plastic. Avoid gimmickry of shape/configuration and defer to basic round. Fewer, larger riffles (Riffle-to-Diameter Index: “5 in 14”) present in approximately 1/4 of the pan perimeter.
With that, one knows how to shop for a single “effective” pan.
2. First Shovel: Long shaft and smaller head, possibly represented by the tool numbering convention of #2.
Less fatiguing, more versatile and a ready rest-stop prop!

Progress in forming the basic beginner’s list. Please continue into other fundamental kit items:
3. Sample Hand Tool: Earlier you said “plastic garden scoop” – why? Because steel metal may magnetizes and complicates its use? Hand fatigue; longer vs shorter tool length best for what uses? Business-end width, pointy or round? Sounds pedestrian and trivial, doesn’t it, but the newbie has to buy something.
4. Bucket size: “5-gallon” - seems like it would be too heavy for most to handle in awkward field situations? This may be over-rode by the present-day diameter of more common classifiers? Plastic, simply because of cost?
5. Classifier: The range of classifier numbers - need a good overall understanding of what to use when. For that one only in the field, why 1/2”? Is it because the smaller than 1/2” material is 100% pass-thru of any potential Colorado gold? Classifier construction – the screen portion’s material is immaterial?
6. Pick, Spud, Crowbar: Only one - which and why? More bang for the effort to get it into the field. Basic shape/size of the select tool?

For this posting, again, thanks so much for the attention/replies to the topic.
Just one last question: Being a Texan, I can easily understand the staying away from slow horses, in any number of situations. But the need to do the same with “fast women” is not intuitively obvious to the casual observer. Does personal preference kick in here to a large degree?

...the true beginner, for some time, does not (cannot) yet have any “personal preferences” (pp)...that person essentially has a blank miners database that would likely be filled through a number of gold recovery, in-field expeditions.
You are correct. There is no better research for pp than boots on the ground, I can only offer suggestions based on my personal experience(s) in Colorado. I have not prospected in Texas. So go get your hands dirty!

1. First Pan: 14” diameter green or blue (2nd), hard plastic. Avoid gimmickry of shape/configuration and defer to basic round. Fewer, larger riffles (Riffle-to-Diameter Index: “5 in 14”) present in approximately 1/4 of the pan perimeter.
Sounds like a good starting point to me. So go get your hands dirty.

2. First Shovel: Long shaft and smaller head, possibly represented by the tool numbering convention of #2.
Yes, like this. So go get your hands dirty.


3. Sample Hand Tool: Earlier you said “plastic garden scoop” – why? Because steel metal may magnetizes and complicates its use? Hand fatigue; longer vs shorter tool length best for what uses? Business-end width, pointy or round? Sounds pedestrian and trivial, doesn’t it, but the newbie has to buy something.
If you are using a sluice you will want a scoop to feed the sluice in a controlled manner. A small scoop is helpful for this task regardless of shape or material construction. Metal will work, plastic will work.... sharp or pointy will both serve you well. So go get your hands dirty.
This looks like the one I use:


4. Bucket size: “5-gallon” - seems like it would be too heavy for most to handle in awkward field situations? This may be over-rode by the present-day diameter of more common classifiers? Plastic, simply because of cost?
Any size or shape of bucket that you prefer. Most folks use standard 5-gal plastic buckets because they are readily available but you can certainly use whatever you like. Anywhere from teacup to dump truck. Kitty litter buckets, etc can also be used. You are merely collecting and transporting ore/dirt for processing. So go get your hands dirty.

5. Classifier: The range of classifier numbers - need a good overall understanding of what to use when. For that one only in the field, why 1/2”? Is it because the smaller than 1/2” material is 100% pass-thru of any potential Colorado gold? Classifier construction – the screen portion’s material is immaterial?
If a classifier number is #8... there are 8 holes per inch, 12 = 12 holes per inch, etc. I like to pre-classify material prior to feeding a sluice. Some like to pre-classify prior to panning. I personally use a 1/2" classifier because my sluices perform much better when material smaller than 1/2" is fed. Many prefer to classify down to 1/4" prior to feeding a sluice. The only way you will ever know is to get out there and experiment. I own a full range of classifiers down to #100. I use these at home when processing concentrated material brought back from sampling. All fine Gold recovery equipment like Blue Bowls, Spiral Wheels, and Micro Sluices require pre-classification for effective recovery. Somewhere down the road you may need more than one size of screen.

6. Pick, Spud, Crowbar: Only one - which and why? More bang for the effort to get it into the field. Basic shape/size of the select tool?
If I had to choose only one for my general sampling exploits in Colorado, I'd choose the pick. Given the luxury... I take all three tools for moving boulders, etc.... but you are in Texas and will have to determine which tool(s) serves you best for your conditions. So go get your hands dirty.

....the need to do the same with “fast women” is not intuitively obvious to the casual observer. Does personal preference kick in here to a large degre
Yes.

Conclusion: Recurring theme - "So go get your hands dirty" is definitely the best thing you can do right now. Try not to overthink the sampling process until you experience it. You've been to Vic's and Fairplay so you obviously have 'some' experience. If you were in Colorado I (or others) could probably arrange to spend a day with you and share tips & techniques. Get out there and experiment with the basic tools we are suggesting and you'll have no problem narrowing down your likes and dislikes. Location plays a large role in fine-tuning your selection of equipment.

First, let me say that, in my previous postings, I may not have fully explained interest in a beginner’s outfitting list, a subject most might think unnecessary. Let me go back for a minute.

I live in a place that, for some distance around, the only mineralization and artifacts to be recovered are mostly broken bottle glass and crushed beer cans - getting hands dirty around here likely adds cuts and possibly tetanus. So, when infrequent vacation opportunities in the Colorado Copper Mountain area recently started to become available in my retirement, I thought its time to move some serious gold panning way up what nowadays is called “one’s bucket list.” Had one opportunity last September - it was a cold-turkey start, a situation I also think might be fairly common, what with the number of CP website visitors and potential members.

Many can agree that getting something right the first time is a facet of the male ego – as, I guess, it was here (or just my aerospace engineer training). I wanted to acquire and necessarily transport the right stuff 1,200 miles and make full and easy use of that basic equipment in the short field time I would have available. But, it went 0 for 2 right out of the starting gate - I bought the wrong pan and shovel! Now “wrong” may be the wrong word, since innovative persons most often can use what is at hand. But I’m thinking in terms of going out and buying, for that very first time, what is not already in the garage or storage.
For me, its now a small fun quest to see if a credible Beginners Kit can get defined and posted. The kit may warrant expansion to things other than hardware. Swizz, I appreciate your observations on what you and many seasoned others use.

Continuing, so far I believe the kit contains:
1. First Pan: 14” diameter green or blue(2nd), hard plastic. Avoid gimmickry of shape/configuration and defer to basic round. Fewer, larger riffles (Riffle-to-Diameter Index: “5 in 14”) present in approximately ¼ of the pan perimeter.
2. Shovel: Long shaft handle and smaller head, represented by the tool numbering convention of #2.

From the latest input:
3. Sample Hand Tool: Plastic garden scoop.
Good pics. This may be Luke Skywalker talking to Yoda, but again, what about metal construction? My one and only scoop won’t easily break when I surely step it, won’t float away when I surely drop it, and, with a sharpened point, can assist digging in confined spaces?
4. Bucket: “Common, round 5-gallon, plastic, approx. 12“ O.D. Check for sturdy handles."
5. Field-Use Classifier: 1/4” to 1/2" square filter openings, round plastic with tabs for stacking or holding in the top of the 5 gallon bucket.
6. Removal Tool: Pick, with the usual spike and flat hoe combo ends.

Some new adds:
7. Gold Recovery Container: Plastic Sniffer bottle and several small sample bottles?
8. First Aid Kit: What items are unique to mining – something one does not usually find in kits, e.g., for blisters?

I think the direction to “Go Get Your Hands Dirty” can become a hallmark logo for the Kit – I am getting anxious for my next opportunity in late Spring 2013.

I have a better understanding of your prerogative now and think that your list is excellent so far.
I would add an inexpensive stream sluice to that list if you can afford one. The Angus MacKirk line is very effective, extremely lightweight, and you can get something nice for under $100. I have a Mini Long Tom from them that does extremely well and I believe was less than $50. This would radically increase your sampling production.
Your metal hand scoop should work very well.
Regarding classifiers... the typical ones sold for mining fit snugly on top of a standard 5-gal bucket and can be rotated back and forth vigorously to speed up the process. Each classifier usually costs a little over $20 from Keene or Jobe. They are heavy duty and do the job well. There are also ways to fabricate your own. I prefer the Keene classifier screens.
They look like this and can be stacked to classify several sizes at once if desired. You can shovel rough material right into them.

1. Pan: 14” diameter, green or blue (2nd choice), hard plastic. Avoid gimmickry of shape/configuration and defer to basic round. Fewer, larger riffles (Riffles-to-Diameter Index: “5 in 14”) in approximately ¼ of the pan perimeter.
2. Shovel: Long shaft handle and smaller head, represented by the tool numbering convention of #2.
3. Sample Hand Tool: Garden scoop, plastic or metal (more durable/versatile). Approx. 12” long, with deep-wall end cup. Possibly padded or contoured handle.
4. Bucket: Common, round 5-gallon, plastic, approx. 12“O.D. Check for sturdier handle/finger grip.
5. Field-Use Classifier: Approx. 12” round plastic bowl with 1/4” to 1/2" square filter opening in bottom; side tabs for stacking or use in the top of the 5 gallon bucket.
6. Removal Tool: Conventional pick, with spike and flat hoe end combo.
7. Gold Pickup and Storage: Plastic sniffer (or snuffer) pick-up bottle (4-6 oz water volume). Gold vials (about 1 oz.). Tweezers, fine point. Small horse-hair paintbrush to transfer fine gold from pan to vial. [Careful use, if a beginner attempts in-field].
8. Stream Sluice*: Beginner’s step-up to increased production.
9. First Aid Kit: Standard contents in water-resistant container. Include hand sanitizer and ointment/coverings best for scrapes, cuts and blisters.
10. Miner’s Success Piece: Rabbit’s Foot*, Special Hat or Shirt, or Good Luck Talisman of choice.

*Note: The Stream Sluice appears to contradict the first-time beginner’s label on basic field tools. But as a beginner increases familiarity/ease with the hobby, from its benefits, the small-scale sluice will quickly become a meaningful lower-cost, basic tool.

*Note 2: Rabbits foot should yield more luck for the miner than the rabbit had!

you forgot rabbit's foot

Snuffer bottle too so you dont throw back those little bits you get sample panning

Amorton,

From a quick scan of internet sources for gold mining equipment, I got the impression the names "sniffer" and "snuffer" were interchangeable. That's not correct?? Please explain and I will make a list #7 item correction.

Anything else on basic tools comes to mind?

Those are ok! it used tobe called a "sucker bottle" untill ole George his darnself thought that sounded to much like something bad! as long as theres gold in it, call it whatever youd like! nobody would notice anyway!

I dont disagree here, however from my experience at least I dont bother trying to really separate every little fine while I am in the field. I will bring a "sucker" "snuffer" "small bottle you can suck gold into" with me suck up the gold and sand near it and move on. Paint brushes glass vials and tweezers I feel are for home and final cleanup. I have never used them while doing field work but that's not to say they could not be used.

i also like to do my final cleanups at home. and i need to start doing my cleanups also. ive got buckets from several years ago still out in my trailer that need tobe done! no rush, winters comeing and gold prices are still climbing!!

Based on comments, suggest revising #7 for clarification, as follows:

“7. Gold Pickup and Storage: Plastic sniffer (or snuffer) pick-up bottle (4-6 oz water volume). Gold vials (about 1 oz.). Tweezers, fine point. Small horse-hair paintbrush to transfer fine gold from pan to vial. [Careful use, if a beginner attempts in-field].”

“10. Miner’s Success Piece: Rabbit’s Foot*, Special Hat or Shirt, or Good Luck Talisman of choice.”

“*Note 2: Should yield more luck for the miner than the rabbit had!”

I've revised the list and added the additions posted so far.
I'd also agree on keeping the final clean up work (especially drying) for home. Far to much can happen in the field to risk all your work for the day and you'll want to have plenty of time to work on this without being rushed either.
Best to get more work done at the dig spot to make more concentrates to haul home in my opinion. Then you'll have more material to do with your final clean up in the end too.

The one thing I see that is missing:

Have a good time and enjoy your time in the field.

We spend far too much time worrying and rushing, concentrating too much on what we think is the objective. The time outdoors in the sun, meeting new people and enjoying the clean air is my primary motivation, and the sheer joy I get (frustration too, I don't kid myself either!) from panning out a few specks of color just make it all worth while!

Caveman

Thanks to those who have commented on this topic so far. I believe the ten item, "Beginner's Gold Panning Equipment" list is very informative and will be helpful information to guide the first-timer's purchases.

I would now like to ask about the basic clothing one takes into the field. I assume these items will be highly seasonal, water-temperature dependent. Do certain boots fatigue the legs extraordinarily fast? Is there sole material that makes for safer in-water walking? Not necessarily going for the very best at first, but only relatively inexpensive, functional clothing considered by the mining veterans as essential to a fun, productive time on-site, whenever.

Mrs.CP and Swizz,
Your post statements in "Equipment - Prospecting and Lapidary" appear to be applicable here for first-timers' cold water consideration:

Mrs.CP: “I like to use dry chest waders. They are not too bad priced at Wal-Mart and they are way more comfortable than hip boots or waders. I can even use them for winter prospecting and stay dry and warm. They even have pockets to keep some things in.”

Swizz: “I agree about chest waders being a good way to go.
Whichever you get, make sure you use knee pads... they can puncture easily when working with rocks all day. Use Aquaseal for repairs on rubber, neoprene, or breathable gortex waders.”

Are you OK with the info cross-referenced and appropriate for this topic??
Mrs.CP - do you still have the box? What are some specifics for IDing the item in the W-M store?

Good point Caveman, field time is awesome.

Yep, those do seem to fit this thread Au-in-the-pan no worries. Our dry waders were just the cheapo' versions without boots had booties, but not shoes, might have been Ozark brand but not sure. We ended up just using our creek shoes (old hikers dedicated to creekin') when using the waders.
The pocket up on the chest worked great until I dipped my chest down a bit too far bending into the creek.....but then again the top kinda scooped up a bunch of cold water too......was facing into the current when I did it of course! BRRRR!