Making first miller table Options

[burrell]

02-09-13 pm

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[russau]

Burrell what is the material you made the frame made of? nylon/ its some sort of plastic and i really like the adjustment devices you installed! first rate!

[Denise]

The uploader will only let you choose one image at a time. After you choose the image, make sure you click the upload button after you pick the file you want. Your project is looking great!!

[burrell]

There is 2 kinds 1 head board and leg assembly has a speckle in it. Possibly a counter top material. The rails are just white. I pulled all of this out of a trash pile years ago. I think the white stuff was packing for high end doors(6.5x55"x1") I'll start asking and see if somebody can id it. The specked had small rounded edge on both sides, counter over hang maybe.

[Caveman]

I'm thinking of doing this too as a project at the cabin (if I ever get the time). It looks like I can get 12"x24" piece of honed slate tile at Home Depot. Will this serve, or does it have to be chalkboard slate?

[russau]

itll work just fine!ill have to go by HD and see it, id like to make another table myself!

[Caveman]

Only available in lots by special order..... Drat! HD had my hopes up.....
I'll make a rune by the tile store though, and see what they have.

[russau]

12 x 24 slate is the perfect size for a Miller Table. and that size is hard to find. but if the price is low enough...........

[Caveman]

I qill post what I find.... It will be a few days though, I'm working this weekend/

[burrell]

I hooked the water up to the table today. All seemed to work fine. Still not finished. It leveled out good just by watching the water run down the table. I'll get a small level this week to use in set up of table. Saw that i could do away with a couple of pieces of hose and a valve. The spray bar is high and the drips falling to the slate is causing ripples going down the table. I'll try a couple of things to make it work as is before reworking it. Water still rounded up under bottom of table at tailing end. I could also see water stacking up about 2" before running off of table. The guess at table angle is 10 degree today. It'll be toward the weekend before i can play with it some more. Will clean the rest of excess caulking off and play with spray bar. Fat n happy

[russau]

ive had this conversation before on another website. they claime that if you round over the "tailings" edge of the slate, thatll elimenate the water problem at that location. i tried that on one of my tables and it still did the same thing,but it never happered the performance of the table so i never tried that again. who cares as long as the gold is being washed clear of the waste material! and when im done running material, i ALWAYS rerun my material at a different lower water pressure to check for any finer gold that i may have missed.

[Caveman]

I have an I dea of pushing water up in a resevior at the top so that it spills over onto the taple face instead of dropping/spraying onto the top edge. This is similar to what the Gold Cube does, but at much lower pressure. What do you think, Russ?

[russau]

i have a Gold Cube and its a completely different situation/operation. i found its best to use a low as possible GPH bilge pump thats probly lower than a 500 GPH and the spray bar i use has the spray holes pointed up so it flows out of the spray bar and flows evenly to the slate and reduces any disruption of the water surface. and keep the waters depth no more than 1/8 inch deep.the finer the gold specks the slower and lower water helps drop the fine gold out and washs the scruff off.dont rush any feeding of material or youll lose fine gold.

[Caveman]

i have a Gold Cube and its a completely different situation/operation. i found its best to use a low as possible GPH bilge pump thats probly lower than a 500 GPH and the spray bar i use has the spray holes pointed up so it flows out of the spray bar and flows evenly to the slate and reduces any disruption of the water surface. and keep the waters depth no more than 1/8 inch deep.the finer the gold specks the slower and lower water helps drop the fine gold out and washs the scruff off.dont rush any feeding of material or youll lose fine gold.

That is what I have in mind. I am going to put a 1/2" spray bar inside a 1 1/2" trough, fill the trough and have it spill over the slate no deeper than 1/8". I am also going to put the bilge pump on a voltage control so that I can vary the speed somewhat. That should keep the ripples non-existant. I will also have some varibility of angle. I'll get it built by summer and post the pics (if I find the slate). Feeding I tend to rush, so an auto-feeder will work for me. I will need some help designing an auto-feeder, and I do have some ideas about that too. Thanks for the advice - I will look for the lowest GPH bilge pump I can find (maybe a 120v aquarium pump with a varible speed controller will work too, if it can handle dirty water).

Have fun!

[russau]

autofeeders are the EZest part of it all. anything to hold your screened cons. Gat gave me the idea back at the RMMR in Idaho Springs and theres a picture of it here on this site somewhere. Gats feeder is a triangle with the one end longer (pointed) and open at that long end. make it adjustable (tilt and hight)and "T" in your water supply from your bilge pump or install another pump so you have lots of controll over all of the variables.im not worried about any fast feeding of these cons, infact the slower it feeds cons, the better fine gold recovery youll have.everytime i start up my table , i wipe off the slate to make sure its clean and free of any bubbles/dirt/left over material. let the water do the work!and the smaller the fine gold, the slower the water and the less of a tilt on the setup! its really cool to watch it do its thing! ...........thatll be a $10,000 consoltation fee! payable in smiles when your done!:)