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Colorado Prospector - Gem and mineral prospecting and mining forums _ Prospector's Crafts & Creations _ Knife Making

Posted by: swizz Jun 28 2012, 09:40 PM

Time to learn something new. thumbsupsmileyanim.gif (I blame Woody for this)
I am going to build a custom knife... and hopefully many more after I get skilled enough.
I've learned a lot through the internet and am ready to get started, I'll post my progress. Hopefully I won't screw it up too bad. blush.gif

So far....

I bought a fixed-handle knife blank. The overall length is 7" and the blade length is 3-1/4". It is 1/8" thick.
Good steel - 440c with a hardness of 56-58 RC so it should hold an edge really well. happy088.gif
This blade style is called "Western Skinner" and will make for a nice fish & bird knife when completed.


While I'm waiting for parts... I decided to practice some decorative file-work today. I plan to incorporate something like this on the Skinner.
This is a vine pattern that I practiced today on a piece of leaf-spring metal that Woody gave me (also 1/8" thick). I used several different needle-files to do this work. I'm ready to try it on the real thing.



Posted by: Woody Jun 29 2012, 07:44 AM

Chriss everything you touch seems to turn to gold, great job.

I'm going to have to give you my next girlfriend and see what you can do with her. lol. If you need some more material let me know. I'll bring some with me next time I come up. Woody.

Posted by: Mrs.CP Jun 29 2012, 03:02 PM

worthy.gif Your talents never cease to amaze me Chris!! The design is amazing and looks fantastic, great job!!

I am so picturing that knife with Unakite from your claim! I have no doubt that you could add that to your many tallents but even a wooden handle will look awesome. thumbsupsmileyanim.gif


Posted by: swizz Jun 29 2012, 09:17 PM

Thanks yous guys!
.... and don't I wish that things I touch turn to Gold, LOL.... more like 2c.gif in this economy. tomatoes.gif
It's gonna be practical handles like wood for a while, until I learn more. I also think that I'll have to eventually step up to a lapidary bandsaw (diamond) for the handle process if working with stone. It would be more efficient for that type work. Inland sells one for under $300 I think, so maybe sometime down the road. It would be good for shaping slabbed material for handles.
Another thing to consider... I've been seeing some incredible examples of fine knife makers who incorporate very ornate Gold inlays into metal scribes of knives and handles. That has given me some good ideas too. I think they buy wire gold (24k)... then melt it to fill the fancy engravings. These guys are metal smiths who forge their own blades so who knows. I haven't studied that process yet... but Gold is something else that is available to me from my soil.

Posted by: swizz Jun 30 2012, 12:31 PM

This is my handle-making material.
It's "Malee Burl"... which is a type of Eucalyptus tree. I picked up these matching slabs for about $10 on eBay.
They are 3/8" thick so I'm going to have to plane them down a bit.




Posted by: swizz Jun 30 2012, 07:13 PM

Now I'm working on the steel. Handle will come later.

I wasn't happy with the shape of the handle tang on the blank so I'm modifying it here on my bench grinder...


I have the shape I want.
Now for the fun part! I've started to create a vine pattern which will be on the exposed portion of steel that runs through the handle (top of the tang).
I'm using a few different needle-files to do this. Starting with small diameter and working my way up. I will add the thorns later with a half-moon shaped needle-file.
This is the start of the vine pattern.

Posted by: swizz Jul 1 2012, 07:36 AM

Well.... this is as far as I got with the vine before my file finally gave up the ghost. sad.gif
Hopefully the hardware store has another needle-file of this shape and size or I'll have to buy another needle-file kit... fortunately the kits are inexpensive.


Posted by: swizz Jul 2 2012, 05:12 PM

moving right along......

almost done with the vine pattern, a little more fine-tuning.... errr, I mean "vine" tuning. tongue.gif tomatoes.gif

Posted by: swizz Jul 3 2012, 07:32 AM

now working on handle design and making a template


Posted by: swizz Jul 3 2012, 08:46 PM

Tracing template to the handle slabs


Then the wood is trimmed down with a coping saw and stationary belt sander. These will be slightly oversized when I install them to the knife... then sanded down to the precise fit. I still need to do a little Dremel work near front of the handles (ricasso area) before installing the wood. That area is nearly impossible to sand once on the knife.

Posted by: Mrs.CP Jul 3 2012, 08:54 PM

It's looking great Chris, sweet wood you chose to use also! thumbsupsmileyanim.gif

Love the updates!!
eating-popcorn-03.gif

Posted by: swizz Jul 4 2012, 12:45 PM

Thanks!

I have shaped the ricasso area on both handle sides, they match perfectly now. I used a Dremel Flex with a barrel-shaped diamond bit. Worked it light and slow with a steady hand. I will bevel the ricasso areas freehand next using the same tools.

Posted by: russau Jul 4 2012, 02:22 PM

looks really nice!

Posted by: swizz Jul 4 2012, 04:49 PM

Thanks russ!

I have epoxied one handle side to the tang. Once the epoxy cures, I will drill those holes through.
Kinda get a good side view of my file-work which created the vine pattern in this pic.

Posted by: russau Jul 5 2012, 06:36 AM

that will end up being a very cherished item to pass on to the kids/grandkids some years in the future! your makeing me do some thinking! thanks for the pics and words!

Posted by: amorton Jul 5 2012, 02:03 PM

Are you planning on doing leather or Kydex for the sheath? I have had success using both for shaped gun holsters I have made in the past.

Posted by: swizz Jul 5 2012, 04:10 PM

Kydex wouldn't look right with this knife... definitely leather. I am not fabricating my own sheaths yet but certainly will be in the future. It's a different artform... not quite ready to dip in yet. I have purchased a leather sheath for this one.
I like the look and functionality of Kydex but more for tactical items. I may try to fabricate a Kydex leg holster for my Glock. happy088.gif char092.gif

Posted by: swizz Jul 5 2012, 05:27 PM

ok... the epoxy has cured and I've drilled through the two smaller holes (and through the wood handle side) - these will be for the brass rods which will be epoxied and ball-peined into place after the other half of the handle is installed. The third hole is for a lanyard if I chose to include it. I've decided not to include a lanyard on this knife, so that hole won't be drilled. Considering the blade style, I think it will look better/cleaner without.... and I don't really use them.
Next I will epoxy the other handle side. When it sets I will drill through it using the holes I just made as my guide.
Anyone notice that the blade-edge and point have been concealed with Gorilla Tape through this entire process? There's a good reason for that. spock.gif

Posted by: swizz Jul 5 2012, 05:41 PM

oops... I accidentally double-posted. blush.gif

Posted by: swizz Jul 6 2012, 06:35 AM

Burl figures.... unfortunately this side will be epoxied down and not seen again. Before installing I noticed this burl impression of what looks like a critter head (manbearpig, haha). Can also make out what looks like a deer with antlers immediately below the critter head. Now I'm wishin' this was the exposed side of the handle, oh well...

Posted by: Mrs.CP Jul 6 2012, 10:18 AM

QUOTE (swizz @ Jul 5 2012, 05:27 PM) *
Anyone notice that the blade-edge and point have been concealed with Gorilla Tape through this entire process? There's a good reason for that. spock.gif


I noticed that, just thought it was to keep you from slicing yourself while working on it.... Especially if you are clutsy as I am.
Ha! That pattern definately looks like a startled pig! laugh.gif Some days it will take me several hours just placing a pattern on a rock I want to cut. Too many good choices to choose from. That's going to be one sweet knife Chris! thumbsupsmileyanim.gif

Posted by: swizz Jul 7 2012, 07:06 AM

QUOTE (Mrs.CP @ Jul 6 2012, 10:18 AM) *
I noticed that, just thought it was to keep you from slicing yourself while working on it....


YES, that is totally why. One slip with the bench grinder or drill and a person could lose or severely damage a finger or two in a heartbeat.

Posted by: OklaPony Jul 7 2012, 07:27 AM

That looks very nice! I'm anxious to know / see what method you're going to use to finish the wood.

Posted by: swizz Jul 7 2012, 07:43 AM

QUOTE (OklaPony @ Jul 7 2012, 07:27 AM) *
That looks very nice! I'm anxious to know / see what method you're going to use to finish the wood.

Hi pony!
I will be finishing this wood in the same manner that rifle stocks are finished.
I'll sand it down to 600 grit (or finer) first. This burl is very closed-grained so it takes a sanding well. I will moisten the wood between sanding grits to raise the grain.... knocking it back down with each finer grit.
Prep coats will include one coat Minwax Pre-Stain treatment. Next one coat of Minwax (natural color) Stain. This will bring depth and richness to the grain without changing the color. Next I will apply numerous coats of Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil.... then followed by several buff coats of Birchwood Casey Gun Stock Wax for protection and luster. Maintenance will be the same as gun stock maintenance.... just re-apply Gun Stock wax and buff occasionally, depending on use and abuse.

Posted by: swizz Jul 7 2012, 11:39 AM

The handle sides are both in place and I've cut brass rods for the rivets.
They are about 1/8" longer on each side so that I can peen them tight on both sides. I will lightly coat the brass rods with wet epoxy before the peening.
The handle is not shaped and sanded to the tang yet, so it's still crude. I will do this after peening... sanding down the rods flat to the handle in the process.

Posted by: swizz Jul 7 2012, 12:17 PM

Peening expands the brass rods for a super tight fit. I used the flat-head side of the hammer for this since I'm not trying to 'round' the brass ends... they will be ground/sanded flat to the handle.
In the first pic you can see the expansion of the brass.


Denise,take a close look at this pic. It is the flip-side of the "scared pig" burl. I'm starting to see... well, I'll let you decide. chin.gif It should be interesting once I sand it a bit.

Posted by: swizz Jul 7 2012, 12:57 PM

Next....

I have the knife back in the table vise for some sanding. Here I'm using a Flex Dremel with a barrel-sanding bit to get the wood flush with the tang. I don't want to sand my brass or sides until that epoxy has fully cured.

Posted by: swizz Jul 7 2012, 01:56 PM

There are many different tools or sanders you can use to work the handle.... files, Dremel, sanding blocks, handheld electric sanders, etc., it's basic woodwork. I'm just using what I have in my arsenal.
I'm getting close to the tang now so I've switched to an orbital finishing sander as the Dremel is too abrasive and scarring. Eventually it will come down to hand-sanding for the final finish.


Posted by: Mrs.CP Jul 7 2012, 02:05 PM

That's turning out great! Your updates of tips, pictures and techniques are awesome Chris. I'm sure there are several other talented people in the forum here scratching their heads thinking........ chin.gif I bet I could do that! thumbsupsmileyanim.gif

The startled pig must have seen his evil wild boar cousin on the other side. laugh.gif

You are a very talented inspiration Chris! Thanks for sharing your work with us!!
chores041.gif

Posted by: swizz Jul 8 2012, 08:54 AM

Thanks! I'm hoping that maybe some other folk here might want to try it. Many of us are very outdoorsy and crafty and I think it fits well. You and Dan would be naturals at it, try! It's not really hard to make a basic functional knife and it's a lot of fun. Don't "need" a bunch of tools or money either... heck, the early settlers and cowpoke made some excellent knives back in the day without a fraction of the tool resources or electricity that we now have. The build I'm working on here is going to end up costing me less than $30 total.. and that's only because I had to buy the steel and wood.... and added the vine-pattern which will require purchasing epoxy pigment. I won the "Western Skinner" knife blank on eBay for $6.51 (such a deal for heat-treated 440C!!!), and (also on eBay) purchased the handle slabs (scales) for about $10. I spent a couple of bucks on the right sized brass rods for the handle scales... which I can also use on future builds. I'd like to make some nice kitchen knives at some point too.

For now, I won't be able to update progress much until later in the week. I may add another (smaller) brass rivet to the handle near the ricasso area for more durability and I'll post that if I do it. I have to order some black pigment that is compatible with the filler I will be using for the vine-pattern (which I hand-filed into the top of the tang). This will be one of the final steps of my knife before finishing but I have to wait for the pigment to get here.

Posted by: swizz Jul 8 2012, 02:18 PM

QUOTE (swizz @ Jul 8 2012, 08:54 AM) *
I may add another (smaller) brass rivet to the handle near the ricasso area for more durability and I'll post that if I do it.


Drilling to add another rivet to this part of the handle.


I done broke the wood! On both sides of the knife.
Not to worry... this was a weak point in my handle design and needed to be addressed. My solution was to put a small peened rivet there. I'm glad I finally screwed something up with this build, it was going waaaay too smooth. thumbsupsmileyanim.gif
Can't say I didn't see this coming. I have a plan. happy088.gif

Posted by: swizz Jul 8 2012, 07:08 PM

QUOTE (swizz @ Jul 8 2012, 02:18 PM) *
I have a plan. happy088.gif


The plan didn't work out so I removed the handle and will make a new one. No biggie, I like the practice!
This time I'm not going to buy exotic wood. That stuff was strange to work with. It was hard, but kind of brittle. Not pleasant to breathe when sanding it either.
I'm going to use my own wood this time, which the knife is sitting on here.... good ol Maple and it won't cost me a dime. happy088.gif

Posted by: swizz Jul 8 2012, 08:17 PM

Ok... back on track. thumbsupsmileyanim.gif
I've traced my new handle design and am about to cut them out with a scroll saw. You can use any saw, I used a hand coping saw last time.

Posted by: russau Jul 9 2012, 06:04 AM

nice grain pattern of that maple! it ought to look equally nice!

Posted by: Mrs.CP Jul 9 2012, 12:55 PM

Dang it, that stinks about the other wood but I have to agree with Russ. The patterns in the Maple are going to look great for the handle! thumbsupsmileyanim.gif

Posted by: swizz Jul 9 2012, 06:45 PM

Back in business... I've epoxied the first handle scale and will leave it clamped overnight.



Posted by: swizz Jul 10 2012, 04:10 PM

oops again..... this time I was overly ambitious peening. Still learnin'

Posted by: swizz Jul 10 2012, 05:26 PM

OK... I jumped right back up on that hoss! chores041.gif

Handle attempt #3 biggrin.gif


Posted by: russau Jul 11 2012, 06:30 AM

frustrating for sure!

Posted by: swizz Jul 11 2012, 07:10 AM

QUOTE (russau @ Jul 11 2012, 06:30 AM) *
frustrating for sure!


Not at all. This is new to me and I expected (actually hoped) to make some errors in construction. The materials I'm using for this first build are really inexpensive (under $20 invested) so I don't mind donating them to the learning curve if need be.
If I'm not making mistakes.... I'm not learning. I should have most of the bugs in the process worked out by the time I'm ready to produce quality pieces.... that's the goal anyway. Hopefully anyone who's following this thread and thinking about trying it can learn from a few of my mistakes along the way.
Definitely not frustrating though, just part of the learning process.

Posted by: swizz Jul 11 2012, 06:40 PM

Alrighty then... I'm at the peening stage again. It's best to leave about 1/8" of extra brass rod on each side of the handle to peen down. You don't have to peen the entire 1/8" down to the handle. The idea is to keep tapping it on both sides until the brass rod expands inside the holes. This holds the handle scales to the tang TIGHT. I'll then sand down the excess until it is flush with the handle.... then I'll sand the rest of the wood down to the tang.

Posted by: ColoradoProspector Jul 14 2012, 02:35 PM

This project has been fun to follow. I can see why you'd definately want to start off with something cheaper for the learning curve.
I'm wondering if maybe a very slight taper on the handle holes would help allow a tad bit more room for the peening process to help lock and hold the handle in place. Possibly even doing the first peening stage during the gluing but that would require both be done at the same time. Would maybe lessen the chances of handle bust outs?
Look forward to seeing the end results of this one and the ones that are sure to follow.

My grandad hand made a knife from an old file and added a antler handle in his younger days......when I find it in the storage boxes I'll post up a pic.
Knife making looks like it could be really fun and creative for sure.

Thanks for including us all on this one Swizz.


Posted by: swizz Jul 14 2012, 04:47 PM

QUOTE (ColoradoProspector @ Jul 14 2012, 02:35 PM) *
I can see why you'd definately want to start off with something cheaper for the learning curve.


Yup, that knife is toast. After being careful peening again.... I broke yet another handle. I'm no rookie to peeing either, the machete peened out well with no problems.
So I got to thinkin'... then I put a straight-edge to that knife blank. Slightly crooked, like a snake! It was enough bad tolerance to create this havoc. All I can figure is it happened during the annealing process at the factory. It's 440C heat-treated to 56-58 RC hardness so there's no way I can straighten it.
Still... really no big deal. I'm sure you guys know very well how it goes with stuff like that since you are lap doggs and bust projects that you've invested hours into occasionally. It pisses ya off, but ya move on quickly and put it behind. I still learned valuable lessons on this first attempt, and I learned detail file work. happy088.gif
Lesson: Don't buy knife blanks from eBay. Buy them at http://www.knifekits.com/vcom/index.php. Very reputable and everything ya need. The knife below came with two pre-drilled bolsters and three stainless pins to peen them onto the blade. It cost $26.95.
I'm not doing fancy file work this time. I just want to complete a quality knife.
This blade is made from AUS8 steel (good stuff). I've attached the bolsters today. So far, success! thumbsupsmileyanim.gif
I peened 3 stainless pins through it, then ground them down and smoothed the bolsters until the pins disappear. It will be buffed after handle installation.
You can read the instructions pictured below to know how this is done.



Posted by: swizz Jul 14 2012, 09:04 PM

"Necessity is the mother of invention".
I've rigged my belt sander to work as a vertical stationary sander. I clamped it into my portable table vise and mounted a feeder block perpendicular.
Makes life much easier. thumbsupsmileyanim.gif


Posted by: russau Jul 15 2012, 05:48 AM

this has been a very interesting thread on makeing a knife!

Posted by: ColoradoProspector Jul 16 2012, 01:53 PM

Doh!! A crooked knife blank would sure do it!
Glad you've got a better blank to use now. We've definately had the same problem with projects in lapidary having poor surfaces that had to be fixed and or accounted for. Like you said though, just gotta move on and keep trying.

Looks like the sander mount should help out a bunch too. We'll all be looking forward to the finish on the new knife blank.

Posted by: swizz Jul 16 2012, 05:49 PM

Going well so far...


Posted by: swizz Jul 16 2012, 06:55 PM

I've removed most of the rough from the handle scales with the vertical belt sander that I rigged (pictured earlier).... it worked great for shaping the handle.
Now I'm getting those tricky areas with a rotary barrel sander bit mounted to a drill press. happy088.gif
The same could be accomplished with a hand drill or even Dremel... the barrel sander bit was less than $5 at Ace. I'm on a shoestring budget, so just working with the tools I have.
I will Dremel and hand-sand to fine finish this area later.


Posted by: swizz Jul 17 2012, 08:36 AM

Back to the belt sander.
I'm currently sanding the bolsters and handle scales flush. Not being shy... using #80 grit.

Posted by: swizz Jul 17 2012, 10:31 AM

Now smoothing the tricky area near the bolster where it's rounded for a finger grip.
I'm using a Dremel but a word of caution. This tool can muss things up FAST... it can gouge and scar the metal and wood in a heartbeat. I'm taking it very slow and light and using a medium/fine barrel sanding bit. So far, so good. This will be hand-finished later.


Posted by: swizz Jul 17 2012, 07:25 PM

I'm in the hand-sanding stage now, almost done.


Posted by: swizz Jul 19 2012, 08:16 AM

Finished!


Posted by: Caveman Jul 20 2012, 07:57 AM

Beautiful! Top notch work!

Caveman

Posted by: russau Jul 20 2012, 11:40 AM

very well done!

Posted by: Mrs.CP Jul 20 2012, 04:41 PM

That turned out fantastic Chris, your efforts definately paid off!! smiley-clapping.gif That's one sweet looking knife!!

Posted by: swizz Jul 22 2012, 07:10 AM

Thanks! I would encourage anyone who's interested to try it. Not expensive and really fun to do. I'll never have to buy a factory made knife again and that makes me happy. Tomorrow I'm ordering parts to make my first folding knife for a friend. It's a "kit" knife but degree of diff is level II - IV so it will be a challenge. The kits are made to be customized by the builder so I will be using unique handle material and possibly do some detail file work. I will update this thread when I get going on it.

Posted by: Mrs.CP Jul 24 2012, 08:12 AM

Looking forward to seeing the next project Chris! You do amazing work!!
When your ready to try a handle with stone, let us know.......We have a killed dino bone slab that would be perfect for one. It is a very detailed grey slab with colored spots like red and yellow. I have only used it for a picture background for smaller stones or jewelry pieces. I think you could make better use of it. happy088.gif I can give you details on size in a pm if your interested.


Posted by: swizz Jul 24 2012, 09:03 AM

WOW... I would love that! thumbsupsmileyanim.gif
I still need to " hone" my skills more to be able to incorporate it into a build but am confident that I'll be able to work with it. What are the dimensions and thickness of the slab? I like the idea!

Posted by: Mrs.CP Jul 24 2012, 04:38 PM

slaphead.gif I forgot that I posted a picture of it in the "Show Us Your Paperweight" thread that you started. biggrin.gif thumbsupsmileyanim.gif
It measures approx. 4 1/2" x 2 1/2" x 6mm.

Just let us know when you're ready for it.
groucho.gif

Posted by: jim Jul 25 2012, 05:41 PM

Yes Swizz you are doing a really great job on the knives. thumbsupsmileyanim.gif Stone inlayed handles would be killer. Denise's offer of dino is a great idea. Ol Gat did one with dino too. That one turned out beautiful too. I'm sure that you have seen it in another thread here.

Posted by: swizz Jul 27 2012, 07:15 PM

I've been without the pc for a week, good to be back and thought I'd do a quick update. Now running Windows 7 Ultimate (instead of Vista), added a 1 Terabyte Hard Drive, and a new graphics card. All sooped-up and ready to rock!!

Jim and D... thanks! That dino piece is large enough to do some cool inlays I think. I'll have to search out Gat's thread with the knife he made.

Meanwhile back at the knife bench. chores041.gif
While waiting for my folding knife parts I went back to working on that first build that I was having trouble with. I've managed to resolve the problems and am back on track with that one again.
The main problem was a very slightly bent knife blank (near the handle tang). It was very hard to straighten since it is 1/8" thick heat-treated 440C. With my mallet and makeshift anvil... I made due and brought her back to true. happy088.gif
Since then I have installed another set of sugar-maple handle scales (kiln dried) from my scrap pile. This time everything went well. All I have left is to fill the detail file-work on the top of the handle tang (vine pattern pictured waaay earlier). Then it's on to shaping, sanding, sanding, sanding, sanding, sealer, stain, oil finish, and wax buffing. whew.gif
In this picture I have poured my epoxy mixture into the voids of my vine pattern. Once it fully cures... it is sanded flush to reveal the pattern. Here's where you can learn from a minor mistake of mine. I recommend using masking tape on the wood scales. This sanded down fine after curing but would have been easier if I'd have done that. There are numerous epoxies out there that can be used in knife-making for inlays. Many use a popular golf club shaft epoxy which is pre-tinted black, I haven't tried that. I am using a clear epoxy here which I've colored black with a proprietary pigment paste. I mix the pigment into the resin prior to adding the hardener. This is a slow-cure which will produce an excellent durable inlay material, but it's self-leveling and a pain to work with if not careful. I'll be sanding everything down to #1600 grit prior to buffing and I believe this epoxy will take a nice shine.... we shall see.


Posted by: swizz Jul 27 2012, 07:33 PM

This pic is a better example of what I'm trying to accomplish.
I've sanded it flush beginning to reveal the vine pattern. You can see I've taped the scales this time and added more filler to areas which had voids. I've also done some handle shaping.

Posted by: swizz Jul 28 2012, 12:07 PM

While that's curing.... the parts for my folding knife have come in and I've begun to work on that. I'm planning on doing a Cocobolo wood handle for this one.

Posted by: swizz Jul 28 2012, 01:58 PM

So far it's coming together nicely.



oops.... blush.gif biggrin.gif

Posted by: Mrs.CP Jul 28 2012, 02:08 PM

smiley-shocked003.gif Sharpness test..........check! slaphead.gif

Posted by: swizz Jul 28 2012, 02:30 PM

I've disassembled the bolsters and am sanding them. I would like to get these to a mirror finish.

Posted by: ColoradoProspector Jul 29 2012, 11:55 AM

Oops?! smiley-shocked003.gif Looks like a definate OUCH! slaphead.gif

Glad the bent blank could be trued out and still used. The folding knife looks like it will be a fun project too....well, I'd actually suggest less blade testing during though. smiley-cool14.gif

You can definately hit a mirror like finish I bet. Once you've sanded out to 1500 grit pictured, then go to the finer/finest wet dry paper you can find. (2200 should be available) Then you can actually use polish medium just like stone work uses.....red rouge, titanium oxide etc with a wet leather pad for a real nice polish. That will be a nice touch to the finish. happy088.gif

Looking forward to seeing them progress, especially the rework to re-expose the vine pattern on the original project. signs021.gif

Posted by: swizz Jul 29 2012, 03:23 PM

QUOTE (ColoradoProspector @ Jul 29 2012, 11:55 AM) *
Oops?! smiley-shocked003.gif Looks like a definate OUCH! slaphead.gif

nah.... it's just a flesh wound


Posted by: Mrs.CP Aug 2 2012, 07:02 AM

smiley-laughing021.gif Haha, classic!!....Monty Python biggrin.gif

Posted by: jim Aug 2 2012, 08:35 AM

smiley-laughing021.gif Good one Swizz! LMAO!!

Posted by: swizz Aug 2 2012, 12:41 PM

Ok.... I have finished the knife that I had problems with earlier. This is the one that I did the custom file work on.
I'm still working on the folding knife and should have that one wrapped up tonight. My next build after that will be a nice Chef's knife (which I need). I'm going to be making that from a blank as well, so it should be really easy. I also ordered some bar-stock metal... so after that I will attempt to design and make my own blade from scratch. That'll be a new learning process I'm looking forward to.




Posted by: russau Aug 3 2012, 05:24 AM

IMPRESSIVE!

Posted by: jim Aug 3 2012, 06:24 AM

Wow Chris that's quite beautiful. groucho.gif Uhh my birthday is Monday...hint hint.

Posted by: Mrs.CP Aug 3 2012, 07:54 AM

thumbsupsmileyanim.gif That turned out incredible, you do amazing work.
The custom file work looks fantastic! You hit another one right out of the ballpark Chris! smiley-clapping.gif

BTW....Pretty sweet looking fossil leaves specimen it is sitting on also!
wink.gif

Posted by: swizz Aug 3 2012, 08:49 PM

Thanks for the kind words you guys. cheers.gif
The level of building that I've been doing is not terribly difficult to learn or do and I would encourage anyone who's interested to try it. It's also rewarding because you can use, sell, or barter the end product. It's just fun to create stuff. Even with minimal hand tools and a shoestring budget, this can be done by you. I received my (full tang) Chef's knife blank and I'll crank out a handle for it and be done fast. After that I'm kicking it up a notch by making my own blade blank from annealed bar stock (ATS34 steel) then getting it professionally heat treated. That will be my next step to creating original crafted blade designs that I can put my name on. happy088.gif

QUOTE (Mrs.CP @ Aug 3 2012, 07:54 AM) *
BTW....Pretty sweet looking fossil leaves specimen it is sitting on also!
wink.gif


hehe... I thought you might like that old fossil plate. I was looking around here for a good background and settled on that one.

Posted by: swizz Aug 4 2012, 09:31 AM

Here is the liner-lock folding knife I just completed. It was a very good learning experience. The blade is almost 4" long so it's a biggun. Steel is AUS8 and I used Cocoblo for the handle.







Posted by: swizz Aug 4 2012, 10:34 AM

Here's the Chef's knife that I'm beginning work on. This blank is pretty rough so I'm going to spend some time sanding and buffing it before I make a handle for it. The steel is AUS8 and already heat treated/hardened.


Posted by: swizz Aug 4 2012, 09:11 PM

I'm going to use a piece of scrap tongue & groove wood flooring (mahogany) for handles on the Chef knife.
If you have a keen eye, you'll notice that I've reshaped the handle tang a little. I used a flex Dremel with coarse sanding barrel bit and shaped it to my liking.


Posted by: Mrs.CP Aug 4 2012, 09:24 PM

That turned out great Chris! Sweet looking wood handle, good job! thumbsupsmileyanim.gif
I have to also mention that beautiful bunny (?) pelt that it is on. Nice! I'm looking forward to seeing the chef kife finished. Looks like your crusing right into it.

Posted by: swizz Aug 5 2012, 11:56 AM

You got it right... that's a wabbit pelt! I have a few different colors of them in my fly-tying supplies. The rabbit might be dead but that pelt will live on and be used for many things. happy088.gif

Chef knife handle progress: I'm adding handle spacers to this one and thought I'd share this process real quick. It doesn't serve much function other than aesthetics. This spacer material is black and made of some kind of plastic. It comes in many different colors and is very thin. Some spacer material is made of vulcanized paper and/or other materials. I bought this from a knifemaking supply store (online) and the sheet was only a couple of bucks. There's enough left over to use on future builds.
Here I have cut it and epoxied it to my rough handle scales using Gorilla epoxy. The spacers will be tight against the handle tang once I attach the scales to the knife. I'll let the epoxy set for a couple of hours before unclamping and then move on to attaching them to the knife.

Posted by: swizz Aug 5 2012, 01:55 PM

While that's drying...
I've designed my first blade. This is my sketch of what I'll be building next. I'll make a template of this drawing and transfer it to the bar stock steel. The metal I will be using is also pictured. ATS-34 is an excellent steel for knifemaking. This piece is annealed but not heat-treated yet. That will make shaping and detail filing less difficult. Once I cut, shape, and detail the knife blank... I'll send it out to be heat treated to a Rockwell hardness of 58-60. When it's returned, I'll begin work on the handle. This method of knifemaking is "Stock Removal". This will be my first try at it and hopefully produce an original piece that I can call 100% my own. happy088.gif
My design is based on the very old Nessmuck style of knife which was extremely common in the 1800s. Kind of an all-purpose knife used by the settlers, cowboys, miners, hunters, ranchers, etc. Handle materials and handle styles for this knife can be basically anything the builder chooses but the common trait of the Nessmuck is the blade shape which is similar to a modern skinner. I guess I chose this blade shape/style cuz I'm kinda old fashioned. char092.gif

Posted by: jim Aug 5 2012, 03:56 PM

Go ahead and admit it Chris. You are a pro knife maker with eons of training and experience. There ain't no way that you are new at it. Your work is giving you away. If you expect us to believe that you are a novice you need to leave a flaw or two...beautiful work dude.

Posted by: swizz Aug 5 2012, 04:35 PM

smiley-laughing021.gif
I really wish I had more experience at this. My only experience is from when I was in high school 1979. I had both Metal and Wood Shop classes. We were allowed to do a combined shop project that year which was "Make A Knife". We crafted the blade (full tang) in Metal Shop, then the next hour was Wood Shop where we did handle work. I really got into that project and got an A after turning in my knife... which somehow got stolen from the Shop locker!!! bash.gif After those long hours of crafting that knife as teenager, then to have it ripped off, I thought I was cured of knifemaking forever and went back to crafting marijuana pipes when the teacher wasn't looking. Needless to say, I plum forgot everything about how to "Make A Knife". I doubt any Shop classes in the country offer knifemaking classes anymore, lol... hell we were making and wearing hunting knives in school, gun racks in trucks. Lucky to live in that more innocent time and a small rural community as a kid. Now that my interest has been rekindled by Woody's gift of a Machete... I dove in a bit and used the internet to learn, which is a tremendous resource as you know.

I made plenty of mistakes on that one with the vine pattern but managed to back-track and fix them as I went along (I think this is known as the "Texas Two-Step" slaphead.gif ). What should have been a fast build took forever and that's ok.. have to put my hands on all the burners. I was really super careful with the folding knife and that one turned out well. The large skinner that I made is far from flawless in my mind. I had problems squaring the bolsters and if I look hard I see much room for improvement on that one. I'm getting better now but will continue to make mistakes for sure. As a beginner I can testify again that it can be done by anyone with patience and determination with minimal tools or investment. I got a little 'artsy' with the vine thing but it's not a necessary skill for making a quality knife. You should try it Jim! Making them from blanks is fun and easy and I already know that you are an exceptionally talented artist with attention to detail and an eye for beauty. Your works don't lie and I have a guitar pick here to prove it!
I might turn out to be a flop at stock removal but I have to try it. Steel shaping is a much different animal than what I've been doing thus far.

Posted by: swizz Aug 5 2012, 05:17 PM

Chef knife.... here I've epoxied one handle scale with the black spacer facing the tang. I'll leave it clamped overnight then drill holes for the pins.


Posted by: swizz Aug 6 2012, 08:00 AM

Meanwhile... with the Nessmuck project, I had to alter the design. After cutting out a template from my first drawing it was apparent that the handle tang was too small. Here, I have altered my drawing and added another 3/4" to the tang as well as lengthened the blade. I'm cleaning up the curves now, will cut another template shortly and try it in hand... maybe as a cardboard knife cut-out first.

Posted by: swizz Aug 6 2012, 12:54 PM

I'm happy with the design and now I've traced it onto the steel and have begun to remove stock with my angle grinder (4" metal cutting wheel). This can be done with a hacksaw or Jeweler's Saw also. I'm going about it slow as not to overheat the steel.
I'm staying outside of my lines to be on the cautious side. After I get the rough shape I can clean up the profile with the angle grinder or bench grinder... and then a Mill File. There are many ways to remove stock and get the profile. I'm just using what tools I have available to me.

Posted by: swizz Aug 6 2012, 02:27 PM

Rough profile completed...

Posted by: swizz Aug 7 2012, 12:38 PM

The Nessmuck design is coming along well. I cleaned up the edges with my bench grinder and am currently removing the natural pitting of the steel with my belt sander (mounted vertically).


Meanwhile, the Chef knife is almost done. Here is the rough handle scales attached and pinned (brass pins, peened). I'm about to take it to the belt sander for shaping.


Posted by: Mrs.CP Aug 9 2012, 12:47 PM

Those are coming along nicely Chris! thumbsupsmileyanim.gif The Nessmuck knife is a great design, it's going to look sweet when finished!!

eating-popcorn-03.gif

Posted by: swizz Aug 10 2012, 12:08 PM

I have a little time today so I've begun to hand-file a bevel on the Nessmuck. This may take some time. I'm not going to put a sharpening edge on it... that will be done AFTER heat treating, very important. My goal here is to equally establish my bevel on both sides of the profile. I'm going with a tall bevel on this knife to increase it's 'slicing' ability. A short bevel would lend itself more to a 'chopping' edge.


Posted by: swizz Aug 12 2012, 01:37 PM

I'm still hand-filing the first bevel on the Nessmuck.... starting to look more like a knife now.



Posted by: swizz Aug 12 2012, 02:37 PM

I have finished the Santoku Chef Knife. Now you can see how the black handle spacers look... I think they added a nice touch. Racing stripes so it can chop and slice faster! slaphead.gif



Posted by: ColoradoProspector Aug 13 2012, 07:45 PM

Very nice work Chris! thumbsupsmileyanim.gif Look forward to seeing the Nessmuck from a total blank....cool! signs021.gif

Posted by: Mrs.CP Aug 14 2012, 07:42 AM

The chef knife turned out fantastic!! Love how you displayed it for a photo shot! char098.gif

thumbsupsmileyanim.gif smiley-clapping.gif


Posted by: swizz Aug 15 2012, 02:36 PM

Thanks Denise! That knife was fast and easy.
Nessy, on the other hand.... difficult. Stock removal is laborious with hand files but coming along well.
I'm almost finished with my second bevel. whew.gif If I mess it up after all this work, I'm going to cry.
I am getting the bevel lines, cutting edge, and ricassos to match. thumbsupsmileyanim.gif


Posted by: jim Aug 15 2012, 06:13 PM

great job on the knives Chris! Most definately a talent!!! Lots of patients is apparent. Attention to detail is very apparent too.

Posted by: swizz Aug 16 2012, 12:09 PM

Thanks Jim!
I'm happy to say that I've completed both primary bevels now on the Nessmuk. I think the hard part is done. They are currently sanded down to about #320. I've decided that the original handle tang I designed was too big and here I have redesigned it. I will reshape it using the bench grinder (possibly cutting disc too). I will also have to drill new pin holes to accommodate this design.

Posted by: swizz Aug 18 2012, 07:16 AM

The Nessmuk (I just realized I've been spelling it wrong... correct spelling of the name is ..."muk") is now ready to be sent off for heat treat/hardening. The company I'm sending it to only does heat-treating once a week on Mondays so it'll be a couple of weeks before I get it back.
Once it comes back I will install the handle scales (maybe stabilized Black Ash Burl for this one), polish/buff all exposed steel, then file a secondary cutting edge into it and sharpen. It will be complete except for sheath. I intend to learn sheath-making soon so that this one has a nice little custom home to sleep in.

Here's what it looks like now after I reshaped the tang and drilled new pin holes. The cutting edge is very blunt and a little thicker than a dime. Anything thinner would be damaged during the heat-treatment, very important! I also engraved my name and other info (where it will not be seen) as requested by the company that will be performing the heat-treat. The heat-treat service costs $5.50 for this knife and I opted for Cryogenic cooling for an additional $4.00. The Cryo process will add durability and increase edge-retention. Basically they will heat this puppy to somewhere around 2500 degrees, then cool it in a Cryo tank which is about -300.

Posted by: Mrs.CP Aug 18 2012, 10:46 AM

Top notch work Chris, great job! smiley-clapping.gif

Posted by: russau Aug 18 2012, 06:49 PM

to what rockwell hardness to they take it to?

Posted by: swizz Aug 18 2012, 09:07 PM

HRC 58-60 on this one.

Posted by: russau Aug 19 2012, 05:24 AM

thanks!

Posted by: swizz Sep 5 2012, 05:08 PM

yaay.... back from heat treat. happy.gif

Posted by: swizz Sep 9 2012, 01:31 PM

I've sanded the heat-treated Nessmuk blade to a mirror finish and am now working on the handle scales. After that I'll create a secondary bevel, or cutting edge. I'll post pics when it's completed.

Meanwhile, I was bored between knife builds while the Nessy was gone to heat-treatment so I tore apart a Gerber that I never liked and gave it a facelift. I used some more of that scrap mahogany flooring again for handle scales w/black spacer material. I also took a hand file and scalloped the spine for grip. I sanded off the black factory paint, rounded the front bolsters, removed the belt clip, and lowered the side profile and handle width little. I have two of these so it's like before & after pics.





Posted by: russau Sep 10 2012, 04:54 AM

and they just keep on comeing! really nice work!

Posted by: Mrs.CP Sep 10 2012, 09:43 AM

QUOTE (swizz @ Sep 9 2012, 01:31 PM) *
I've sanded the heat-treated Nessmuk blade to a mirror finish and am now working on the handle scales. After that I'll create a secondary bevel, or cutting edge. I'll post pics when it's completed.

Meanwhile, I was bored between knife builds while the Nessy was gone to heat-treatment so I tore apart a Gerber that I never liked and gave it a facelift. I used some more of that scrap mahogany flooring again for handle scales w/black spacer material. I also took a hand file and scalloped the spine for grip. I sanded off the black factory paint, rounded the front bolsters, removed the belt clip, and lowered the side profile and handle width little. I have two of these so it's like before & after pics.







Nice modifications Chris, it looks great now! thumbsupsmileyanim.gif The Nessy knife you made is coming along great, cant wait to see the finished piece.

Posted by: swizz Sep 21 2012, 09:05 AM

Nessmuk update...
I'm in the finish stages now, still doing everything by hand. The handle scales are attached and finished but I'm not showing them until completion. eating-popcorn-03.gif
In this pic I am hand-sanding the blade to a mirror finish starting with #80 grit and working my way down to #1500 to remove all scratches.
If you look toward the ricasso I have added a choil. A choil is the indentation near the rear of the cutting edge. This is to create a clean termination of the cutting edge at the rear of the blade.

Posted by: russau Sep 21 2012, 11:34 AM

HUMMMMM? your handmade knifes make my $9.50 pocket knife look.................well,can i say,not nearly as impressive!

Posted by: Mrs.CP Sep 22 2012, 06:34 AM

Top notch work tends to do that Russ. It's coming along great!! thumbsupsmileyanim.gif

Posted by: swizz Sep 23 2012, 09:27 AM

Not really "top notch"... I'm not an accomplished maker yet and have been doing the old "Texas two-step" (one step forward, two steps back) more times than I care to admit, but definitely appreciate the compliments!
I'm nearing the finish line (I hope). I've begun the sharpening process. I've opted to have a satin finish on this blade as per recommendations from the pros. The blade is now sanded to #400 grit (rather than #1500 which I originally planned) because "mirror finish" is primarily used for "presentation" knives and I want this one to be a workhorse. I like the satin finish. The blade is now taped while I sharpen to protect my finish work.

Posted by: russau Sep 23 2012, 03:57 PM

Chris they all look "accomplished" to me!

Posted by: swizz Sep 24 2012, 09:14 AM

Not sure if I mentioned this but my Dad's birthday is on Halloween. I plan on sending this to him for his birthday gift. He turns 90 but still has plenty of fire left.... still actively working on our U.P. home, hunting camp, and cottage along with many other projects and gardens. Safe to assume he will put this knife to work!
Knife is now completed and has a razor-sharp edge. thumbsupsmileyanim.gif
I will be ready to ship it in time. happy088.gif

Two things I wish I could complete before sending it to him:
1. Wish I knew how to make a sheath, I will eventually. I have ZERO sheath-making skills or knowledge so I am now making a display base for it instead. Would like to present both sheath and base with the knife but not possible.
2. Maker's mark. I have created my maker's mark artwork (jpg format) but I think it would be a push to expect to have an etching service create my stencil and apply it to the blade in time.

Here's a picture of the base I am making from a nice piece of scrap Maple. The knife will be positioned on a small piece of driftwood from Lake Superior that my Mom sent me a while back.

Posted by: Mrs.CP Sep 26 2012, 06:29 AM

Your dad is going to love it Chris!! thumbsupsmileyanim.gif

Posted by: swizz Sep 26 2012, 09:34 AM

Thanks Denise! I think so too. He better or I'm cutting him out of the will. oh wait... that should be the other way around.
Meanwhile, while I'm finishing the base for the Nessmuk (I'll picture that base and knife later)... I have purchased another billet of good steel for Woody's knife.

Woody, I need your input as to what style of knife you'd have most use for.
1. Nessmuk? A good all-around blade
2. Drop Point Hunter? You may already have enough of these.
3. Skinner? Can never have enough of these
4. Bowie? sorry, I don't have those skills yet blush.gif

Just let me know bud, I'm itching to get started on it.


Posted by: russau Sep 26 2012, 12:02 PM

just a suggestion for Woodys knife, make it into a throwing knife so he can point out where the gold is! :)

Posted by: swizz Sep 26 2012, 12:12 PM

YES! A dowsing knife, I like the way you think.

Posted by: swizz Sep 26 2012, 01:22 PM

Finished at last! thumbsupsmileyanim.gif

Sorry but these pics are not of my usual quality. I'm not happy with them but this will have to do.
I recently broke my Olympus E420 DSLR and these were taken with my Droid RAZR. Best can do with what I have right now. Oh well....

Nessmuk
ATS-34 steel - draw-filed flat bevels, Texas Knifemakers heat treatment with Cryogenic quenching for ultimate hardness
Scales - stabilized Black Ash Burl w/black spacers, brass pins (#1500 finish and Carnuba wax)
Blade finish - #400 grit, then Scotch Brite pad
Spine and exposed tang are mirror finish - #1500 then hand buffed

Specs:
Spine thickness - 1/8"
Blade height - 1 3/16"
Blade length - 3 3/4"
OAL - 8"
Handle width - 9/16"



Top


Bottom


With Base


Note: I installed a powerful magnet (Neodymium) into the driftwood. Holds knife securely
in place when displayed. Magnet is recessed into the wood 1/16" as not to scratch the knife.


Balance

Posted by: Mrs.CP Sep 26 2012, 02:29 PM

smiley-shocked003.gif Wow!! Amazing work Chris! Great idea adding the magnet and great balance. thumbsupsmileyanim.gif

Sure looks like top notch work to me......
chin.gif music037.gif

Posted by: russau Sep 26 2012, 07:27 PM

you have become very talented in this venture! im sure that you could sell quality knifes and make good money at it! true story, but not ment to imply anything towards you .....there was once a man where i used to .........work,and he made some beautiful knifes and had a portfolio of them to show off his talent. unfortunatly he got fired for doing this at work useing scap metal and "new" saw blades for his knifes. all the boss' knew of his work, but someone got their feelings hurt and complained to security and they HAD to fire him even though some of the guys in security had him make them a knife also.

Posted by: swizz Oct 20 2012, 08:54 AM

I started my next build.
Another Nessmuk that I designed... a little different than the last one. This has a thumb-stop on the top of the tang and a different handle shape, overall a little more ergonomic. I may do some detail file work on this one for fun.
Steel is ATS-34 and currently in an annealed state. This is my drawing, template, and profile that I cut.
I'll post occasional progress.

Posted by: ColoradoProspector Oct 23 2012, 09:39 AM

Bet your dad is going to love that first Nessmuck style, it turned out very nicely!
I really like the style of the Nessmuck too, look forward to seeing this one progress. If you do choose to go with detail filing vine work with it that will really be a nice finishing touch for sure!


Posted by: swizz Oct 23 2012, 04:09 PM

Well... Dad opened his birthday present early and he loves it! thumbsupsmileyanim.gif That was the perfect thing or him.
Maybe I'm back in the will. smiley-laughing021.gif

I just ordered a set of diamond needle files for $20 from Jantz.... what a deal! That should make the detail work a little less painful.


Posted by: swizz Oct 29 2012, 09:38 AM

Quick progress update on the Muk II.
The diamond files worked great.
I'm about to start the laborious process of creating the primary bevels (draw-filing) but thought I'd show a quick pic of a tool that I fabricated to help the process.
It is a 'file-guide'. I made it from two pieces of leftover billet steel. It sandwiches the bade where the bevel-plunges will start and will keep them symmetrical throughout the process.
They cost anywhere from $40+ but I was able to make this for pretty much free.


Posted by: swizz Oct 30 2012, 10:31 AM

This is a billet of metal that Woody gave me and will not be a knife... just a practice piece to get better at detail filing.
Here I have filled in the file-work with a pigmented epoxy (black) and wanted to see if the black epoxy would stain or bleed into some red spacer material. The spacer material is vulcanized paper and it worked well. I had to try it before doing it on the real thing.


Posted by: Mrs.CP Nov 1 2012, 06:13 AM

That looks great Chris, sweet design detail!! thumbsupsmileyanim.gif

Posted by: swizz Nov 14 2012, 01:40 PM

Thanks!
I now have this one ready to be sent off for heat-treat. I will be using 8 of the holes in the tang... the rest were drilled to achieve balance.


Posted by: swizz Nov 19 2012, 01:24 PM

I sent the Muk 2 to Texas for heat treat & cryo. It won't be back for a week or two.
Meanwhile I'm working on another stock-removal.
This will be a drop-point camp knife or small hunter.
First I designed and drew the knife (center).
Then I put it on my copier and cut it out... traced it onto a steel billet.
Next I used an angle grinder and bench grinder to cut the knife profile from the billet (bottom). chores041.gif whew.gif
Once the profile was created I traced it onto my design sheet for future use, labeled "template" (top).
The steel I am using here is CPM154CM and superior to anything I've used thus far. A little more pricey. "CPM" stands for "Crucible Powder Metallurgy". The process creates an extremely uniform and stable steel matrix.

Posted by: swizz Nov 23 2012, 08:01 PM


Posted by: ColoradoProspector Nov 24 2012, 09:00 AM

Whew! Looks like that's a job in itself right there and x 2 for the reverse side.
Nice work Swizz.

Posted by: Mrs.CP Nov 25 2012, 07:01 AM

It's looking great Chris, coming along very nicely. Looks like you have a sweet vise set up to do what you need.
Careful though, your leather gloves has holes and you don't want to find one of those with the knife blade. wacko.gif

Posted by: swizz Nov 26 2012, 07:56 AM

Thanks Denise!
No worries on getting cut. The cutting edge of the knife will remain dull (thickness of a dime) until after heat-treatment and handle assembly. Shaping and sharpening the cutting edge is the final step.
The vise is such a big upgrade, especially for detail filing. It's all-steel with rubber jaws, and fully universal... still can't believe it cost only $20! http://www.knifemaking.com/product-p/js355.htm

Posted by: swizz Nov 29 2012, 12:19 PM

The Drop Point knife is almost ready for heat treat.

Posted by: Mrs.CP Dec 3 2012, 08:24 AM

Not a bad price for the vise at all! Projects are coming along nicely Chris! I can't wait to see the finished pieces with the wood you are going to use for the handles. eating-popcorn-03.gif

Sweet fossil specimen also!!!
smile.gif

Posted by: swizz Dec 21 2012, 10:25 AM

Hi all,
Just a quick update on my knife work for anyone interested.

This is the Nessmuk I was working on. I got it back from heat-treatment and was ready to begin finish work. I noticed a slight bow in the knife and attempted to straighten it using a table vice and three dowels. I put incredible stress on the knife while attempting to correct the problem and.... SNAP! I never had high hopes of straightening it after heat-treat. Not a big deal and I'm moving forward with other builds. The billet I made the Nessmuk from was bowed when I bought it. I had corrected it prior to heat-treat but I believe it recurred during the process. Lesson learned with the steel. I'm now working with "precision ground" billet steel which arrives perfectly straight and flat.
Here's the Muk


Here are two Drop Point Hunters I'm currently working on (from precision ground CPM154CM). I'm still working with hand files and sandpaper so these took an incredibly long time. They are almost ready to send in for heat-treatment (one still needs to be drilled).
Two different hunter-style blade shapes here. The top one is what I would consider a "classic hunter" and the bottom will be a "hunter/skinner".


I am fabricating bolsters from 1/4" thick brass billet.

Posted by: Mrs.CP Dec 21 2012, 11:48 AM

That really stinks about the Nessmuk snapping, but was definately a live and learn. The precious ground billet steel sounds perfect for what you are doing. thumbsupsmileyanim.gif

Your work is looking great Chris, thanks for the updates. Very interesting stuff to learn.
happy088.gif

Posted by: amorton Dec 21 2012, 05:05 PM

Swizz don't throw out that knife, I can weld it for you, It wont be 100% like new but its salvageable as a good backup knife or truck knife.

Posted by: swizz Dec 21 2012, 07:58 PM

QUOTE (amorton @ Dec 21 2012, 04:05 PM) *
Swizz don't throw out that knife, I can weld it for you, It wont be 100% like new but its salvageable as a good backup knife or truck knife.


Hi Andrew!
I wont be throwing it out... it's currently in my museum of broken stuff.
I wouldn't be able to live with it as a resurrected piece. It has a vine pattern filed into the spine which would never line up and it would drive me nuts to look at it.
Plus, it would still require a LOT of finish work including the secondary bevel (cutting edge), blade finish, and scales.... many hours.
Need a challenging lil winter side-project? groucho.gif
To me it's not worth it and it'll just collect dust here in the "museum".... BUT... if you want to dabble with it for your own use I'd be happy to send it your way! It's already hardened.

Posted by: swizz Dec 25 2012, 09:41 AM

meanwhile...
This pair of drop point hunters is about ready for heat-treat. I'm experimenting with filing thumb grips onto the top of knife spines. If I can master that soon (practicing today)... I'm going to add that feature to these before sending them in. If I owned a checkering file it would be really easy but they cost about $50 each. Attempting with needle files now.

Posted by: Mrs.CP Dec 26 2012, 09:14 AM

QUOTE (swizz @ Dec 21 2012, 06:58 PM) *
Hi Andrew!
I wont be throwing it out... it's currently in my museum of broken stuff.


I have one of those also sad to say. Sure would be nice to do something with them though. I must have 10-15 flawed guitar picks half done that will never be finished out. I see no point in finishing them when a flaw is detected, since they will be used as a tool.

Bet if the broken knife could be lined up and fixed properly, Andrew would be the guy to do it! happy088.gif
Hope the thumb grips are coming along good.



Posted by: swizz Jan 21 2013, 10:43 AM

I've been learning how to make leather sheaths during the cold evenings here.
This is an accomplishment for me since I can't even sew a button to save my life.
Bad thing is, I've discovered that sheath-making is possibly more addictive than knifemaking. Leather is pretty fun to work with. I used a sewing awl so that took the pain out of stitching but I still need to learn saddle-stitching with two needles.
This sheath is a "friction fit" type. The fit turned out nice and firm. Pattern making is very important. I can shake this upside-down and the knife stays put. It has a three-finger grab. The leather is 7-8oz double-shoulder cowhide which I dyed walnut and treated with several chemicals throughout the process.
I'll be gifting this knife and sheath to the guy who delivers wood (always gives me a great deal). He's a south-paw, hence the lefty sheath.
I would encourage anyone who's ever thought about doing leather work to give it a try! Relatively inexpensive and downright fun. There are online youtube tutorials that make it fairly easy to learn.










Posted by: russau Jan 21 2013, 09:28 PM

extreamly beautiful work Chris! i made a sheath for a knife my late father in law gave me out of a soft leather (possibly deer) i made this about 77-78 and i still have it but dont use the knife anymore.i used this knofe as my skinning knife when i used to hunt.

Posted by: Mrs.CP Jan 28 2013, 08:17 AM

Fantastic work Chris, it turned out awesome! thumbsupsmileyanim.gif You are definately a man of many talents!! I love working with leather. My first job was working at an indian tribal center making moccasins and jewelry. After a day of punching holes in leather, one sure feels it in their hands. wacko.gif We use to also make little leather purses......I loved that job! happy.gif

Posted by: Dypheron Jan 28 2013, 11:40 AM

Swizz, to go way back to the beginning where you mentioned the inlayed designs, it's a bit easier (in theory) than you think. They engrave the design into the metal in such a way that both sides are undercut. /_\ <-sort of like that. Then they basically take wire and beat it into the cut, filling in the undercut and making it part of the base metal. For a really cool looking checkerboard pattern they twist two different types of wire together and inlay that. Used to have a copy of a documentary on traditional swordmaking where they demonstrated the technique, really cool stuff.

Posted by: swizz Feb 6 2013, 08:39 PM

Dypheron, russ, and Denise, thanks for the kudos! Leather work is pretty addicting. Dypheron, regarding the inlay work... I think I can grasp the inlay process but the engraving is a true art-form within itself. It requires some equipment and a lot of skill. I may try to tackle that down the road but have miles to learn about knifemaking alone. I need to master function before I get too fancy. There are many facets of knifemaking which I haven't even tried yet. I'm gonna need a bigger bucket for my bucket list. wacko.gif

I just sheathed my two throwing hawks.... took a couple days each. They're snug as a bug. Now they won't be hacking up the interior of my Jeep.
Here are some pix.













Posted by: Caveman Feb 6 2013, 08:49 PM

Swizz,

Don't kid yourself.... those sheaths look totally professional. Increadible work. The same goes for the knives. Great work! I am very impressed, and I am looking foward to the day when you start selling them. I will definitely buy one!

Caveman

Posted by: russau Feb 7 2013, 07:17 AM

yep! very nice indeed!

Posted by: Dypheron Feb 7 2013, 11:25 AM

Ditto, the day you start selling I'll be standing in line with cash in hand.

Posted by: Mrs.CP Feb 15 2013, 09:36 PM

Fantastic leather work Chris! thumbsupsmileyanim.gif Bet you can't wait to get back out there and toss those throwing hawks again. happy088.gif

Posted by: swizz Feb 16 2013, 07:50 AM

Someday.... I'll be able to make and sell.... but not until I acquire a 2X72 belt grinder. That will be a glorious day, but it will be a while.
Denise..... YES! I can't wait to throw the hawks again! thumbsupsmileyanim.gif

Posted by: Caveman Feb 16 2013, 08:25 AM

Duck! ohmy.gif

Posted by: russau Feb 16 2013, 07:24 PM

Swizz that belt grinder is EZ to make! i saw one somebody made on the net (maybe here??) homemade would be so much cheaper!!

Posted by: swizz Feb 17 2013, 06:22 PM

Cabin fever...
I made a belt-carry sheath for my Fiskars hatchet. I'm right handed but made this a lefty since I usually have knife & gun holstered on the right when in the woods.
















Posted by: Caveman Feb 17 2013, 06:27 PM

worthy.gif Beautiful! worthy.gif

Posted by: swizz Feb 17 2013, 07:07 PM

Thanks Caveman.... it'll do the job. I'm thinkin leather work is a good frontier skill and I wish I'd have taken it up a long time ago but never had a reason to.
Now I'm out of things to sheath and still have a nice hunk of leather... that means I need to get back to knifemaking.

Posted by: amorton Feb 17 2013, 09:17 PM

Chris what are you using to burnish the ends on the leather ?

Posted by: swizz Feb 18 2013, 08:05 AM

QUOTE (amorton @ Feb 17 2013, 08:17 PM) *
Chris what are you using to burnish the ends on the leather ?

Mostly wet rag and friction.
Hand sand edges to #300 grit (dry sand and wet sand).
Then use a wet rag to get the burnish started, then hand buff with leather-slicker tools. Final step with the burnishing is to buff with Gum Of Tragacanth.

Posted by: Mrs.CP Feb 18 2013, 09:10 AM

Cool belt Chris! thumbsupsmileyanim.gif Maybe leather belts next?

Posted by: swizz Feb 18 2013, 09:57 AM

QUOTE (Mrs.CP @ Feb 18 2013, 08:10 AM) *
Cool belt Chris! thumbsupsmileyanim.gif Maybe leather belts next?

For sure... I'd like to make a good leather belt! I need a strap-cutter to pull that off though, in due time.

Posted by: swizz Mar 1 2013, 11:43 AM

Well... I'm still on a sheath kick.
I just learned how to wet-form leather and made this sheath for the folding knife I pictured earlier in this thread.








Posted by: Caveman Mar 1 2013, 03:48 PM

Ok, you got mad skills! happy088.gif That looks waaaaaaay better than store bought or OEM supplied. I really like the paw print on it. Can I commission one for my trusty Buck 112? The dog ate mine a few years back.

Thanks!

Posted by: swizz Mar 5 2013, 11:09 AM

hmmmmm..... I had to give this some thought.
I could, BUT my conclusion is that it would be smarter for you to just replace the Buck sheath with another Buck sheath.
I have a Buck 112 and am familiar with the knife and sheath. The knife is ok, a little on the heavy side but good steel. If I were to make a sheath for yours... I would have to make a whole new press customized to the 112 dimensions in order to form the pouch. From there everything else is hand-done and kinda time consuming. It's a labor of love but there's no way I would make money at it for a Buck 112.
Searching Amazon the original Buck sheath for that knife can be bought for under $15 and is plenty adequate for that knife. It's not as purty as my sheaths but definitely functional and a great value. They obviously mass-produce with machine presses, dies, machine stitching, and minimal finish work. Also... a knife with it's original manufacturer sheath is typically of greater resale and collector value, regardless the sheath quality.
If you were to purchase a DDR3 folder kit (which is a far superior knife), I could custom-build that knife and a sheath to go with it for example. That's what I did here and would make more sense. I just think that a custom sheath for a Buck 112 is probably overkill unless you make it yourself.
Make sense?

Posted by: Caveman Mar 5 2013, 01:34 PM

Very true, and yes it does.... but it wouldn't be a Swizz made sheath! biggrin.gif I like the talent, quality, and work you put into it. I havn't bought a 112 sheath because I just haven't found them in stores and I just haven't bothered to look online for it.... I've been making do with old tool sheaths (leatherman, sog, and the like) until they wear out and I find another that will work. I've had this knife for almost 15 years, it replaced another that I had had since 1978 (lost in a snowstorm in the Flat Tops by Hiner Spring). Darn good utility knife, nice and solid, but, like you said, heavy, and for some reason, it doesn't seem to hold an edge like my old one did and is harder to open. I guess what they say is true... replacements never match the original - even if it's the same maker! smiley-laughing021.gif Thanks for the answer and explanation.

Hope to see ypu out there!

Posted by: swizz Jan 5 2014, 09:16 AM

This is a handle that I made and am shaping for an Arctic Hunter. The knife is purposed to skin Caribou or other game in the winter while wearing gloves so the grip is slightly oversized by design. It feels pretty good in the hand now, with or without gloves.


I'm also restoring a vintage Solingen Bowie knife for a friend. That knife is in pretty rough shape but I think I can bring it back to life. I'll probably post some pics of that one down the road.
Kinda limited on what I can do with hand tools for now but getting real close to being able to afford a 2X72 belt grinder finally. Once I get that.... look out world, I'll be in production.


Posted by: Caveman Jan 5 2014, 09:37 AM

Are you working with Damascus steel now?

Posted by: swizz Jan 5 2014, 09:57 AM

QUOTE (Caveman @ Jan 5 2014, 08:37 AM) *
Are you working with Damascus steel now?

Good eye, that is Damascus.
No more steel work until I get a 2X72, fried most of my power tools overworking them.
This is a restoration for a friend. When he gave it to me the Damascus lines were nearly invisible and the faux-bone handle was coming apart. I re-etched the Damascus twice to bring back the patterns and darken the blade. I started from scratch on the handle which is far better than what was on there originally... I wish I had pics of that abomination before I removed it.
The Damascus on this knife was made by a guy in Alaska... I'm not sure of it's quality, I noticed some flaws. I'll more than likely be using forged bar Damascus from Alabama Damascus when I get on it again. Their Damascus recipe is top notch and they have excellent patterns to choose from. Man, I can't wait.

Posted by: Crusty Jan 5 2014, 04:21 PM

Another thread I never stumbled on... these are very cool! When you're ready to go in to production, I'd be happy get in line for a Swizz original!

Posted by: swizz Jan 5 2014, 08:44 PM

You got it!
Gonna be a lil bit though, I just dropped a wad of cash on a camera which was more of a priority for me.

Posted by: russau Jan 6 2014, 05:48 AM

Top notch quality and design!

Posted by: swizz Jan 10 2014, 12:08 PM

Thanks russ!
I have a snowy day off today so I figure I'd better get started working on a sheath for this guy.
In the design stages right now and to me this is the most difficult part of sheathmaking. If you design the pattern wrong it can be a disaster down the road trying to put everything together. I'll need to cut patterns out of the thick paper and trace them onto leather. It gets more fun after that. Just drawing this pattern will take me the better part of today though. I'm about halfway through this design so far.

Posted by: Caveman Jan 10 2014, 02:42 PM

Did you do some file work on the top of the knife? If so... post some pic's, darn it! Love your design work and creativity. thumbsupsmileyanim.gif

Posted by: swizz Jan 10 2014, 09:18 PM

No, the filework was done by the original maker. It wasn't very well done and not an intricate pattern.
Definitely not up to my standard.

Posted by: swizz Jan 12 2014, 08:32 AM

Some sheath progress....

Ready to trace and cut my patterns on the leather. I'm using 8oz Cow shoulder.


Pieces cut, this will be a 6-piece sheath


Here's what it looks like mocked together so far. Gives a basic idea of the shape, style, and fit I came up with.




Nice and snug fitting welt


Posted by: swizz Jan 12 2014, 02:03 PM

Using my stitch groover tool I engraved the stitch lines on both show sides plus some decorative border.


Next using a #5 stitch wheel (5 stitches per inch) I deeply mark the stitch line into the groove where it will be sewn. Only on the face piece for now.


Then I tack the front and back show sides together... temporarily. If I did everything right to this point the front and back grooves should be aligned perfectly. I won't know until I put it to the drill press and drill each stitch hole. If I did everything right the bit should be punching through the back right in the groove.

Posted by: swizz Jan 12 2014, 02:41 PM

On to the drill press....


I drilled 5 test holes with the pieces tacked together to see if I'm aligned.


Backside.... bullseye on all five



Posted by: Mrs.CP Jan 13 2014, 10:46 AM

Fantastic job Chris, I bet he will be very pleased with the work you did to it!! thumbsupsmileyanim.gif You take great care in the work you do and it really shows! happy088.gif

Posted by: russau Jan 14 2014, 05:26 AM

thumbsupsmileyanim.gif

Posted by: swizz Jan 14 2014, 06:07 AM

Thanks! I'm at a stopping point now until I receive the thread and leather stamps I just ordered. He wants his initials in the sheath so I ordered the lettering stamp set.... I need em anyways.
Leather dye and some finish work like lettering needs to be done before putting the sheath together. I'm thinking a reddish or mahogany color for this sheath.

Posted by: swizz Jan 26 2014, 10:00 AM

I'm still at the same stopping point.... the leather company screwed up my order and now it won't be here for another 3-4 days.
That.... and I've been working on a log home project and still have several days left there (business has been good!).
So - the homeowner that I've been doing work for was throwing out some really nice Oak desk components and offered them to me. Hell ya!
I have a day off today and am making a sturdy workbench which is gonna be really nice for knifemaking, leather work, fly tying, pyrography, taxidermy, lapidary, mineral processing, drill press, grinder, vises, etc!!! I've needed this for a long time. Plus the drawer set is perfect for my sand papers and tools.
Today I'm constructing legs for the left hand side of it from 4X4. My antique drafting table is to the left of it that will serve as a shelf or drawing board. It can go up, down, and tilt.
Kinda silly, but I'm excited about this!

Posted by: Caveman Jan 26 2014, 06:44 PM

Chris, I've now turned green. What you are doing with that desk set-up is outstanding.

Posted by: russau Jan 27 2014, 05:16 AM

Chris i dont blaime you for being excited about this project! ive been in the same position at times myself! its a good feeling!

Posted by: swizz Jan 27 2014, 08:26 AM

Got that workbench done.
The 4X4 legs are super sturdy! I used large lag bolts.
Starting to load it up with things now, fun! I'll be a much happier maker.

Posted by: swizz Jan 29 2014, 05:36 PM

Ok, back to work on that Arctic Hunter sheath.
Finally got my leather goods order in. I bought some leather stamps and tried my hand at a basket weave pattern. Kinda tricky. wacko.gif
I stamped the owner's initials on the backside and the weave on the front (wolf paw is my maker's mark until I can afford a custom stamp).


I still have some tooling to do on this but happy with the results. It'll look better once it gets dye and a carnuba wax buff.

Posted by: OklaPony Jan 29 2014, 05:54 PM

Holy crap, are you kidding me? That's awesome! thumbsupsmileyanim.gif

Posted by: swizz Jan 29 2014, 06:22 PM

Thanks Pony! You gonna make it out to Colorado this year?

Posted by: OklaPony Jan 29 2014, 06:41 PM

QUOTE (swizz @ Jan 29 2014, 06:22 PM) *
Thanks Pony! You gonna make it out to Colorado this year?

God willing, dang right I am!

Posted by: Caveman Jan 29 2014, 08:05 PM

Chris, I am going to finish the mod on the trommel barrel, and turn the bottom hopper around to see if that helps keep it clear. I am also going to add a "Jet Dry" dishwasher
rinse aid solid to the intake screen on the foot valve of the pump. Should have interesting results. If you will have me, I'd like to come up at least once this year and give it
a go.

Posted by: Caveman Jan 29 2014, 08:09 PM

Dang it all - got so wrapped up in thinking about the trommel - I forgot to comment on your AWESOME skills! slaphead.gif Great work on both the knife and the sheath.
Mad skills, very mad skills!

Posted by: swizz Jan 29 2014, 08:37 PM

Hell ya! You're always welcome at the claims. That sounds like an interesting trommel mod!

Posted by: Caveman Jan 30 2014, 09:14 AM

Thanks, Chris! thumbsupsmileyanim.gif I REALLY want to try the trommel up there! Now I just need to get a 2 wheel wheelbarrow to carry dirt.... Need a good pile of dirt to feed the monster - it
gets really hungry! smiley-laughing021.gif

The holes in the barrel are being drilled out to a little under 1/2", and turning the hopper around will put the long angle under most of the force of the water, so it should wash
out better. The short angle will still pile up with some gravel, but since it is much shorter and steeper than the long angle, it will not hold as much or take as long to wash it
out with the hose. I just need to open up one of the holes in the brackets a bit, and it will sit just fine. I just need to find the time to finish now that I have a new drill. I can
actually fit the jet dry solid inside the foot valve screen, I just need to run a piece of coat hanger through it for the basket to attach to. The solid is designed to dissolve under
hot moving water, but will do the same in cold water, just much more slowly. We shall see how that works.

I intend to try it out at Point Bar with a test run of about a yard or so this Spring, or possibly up in Denver where there are consistent fines. I hope in mid April. I just have
to get somebody to watch the animals for a day. I want to find out how fast I can shovel in material before the sluice box is overwhelmed as the barrel will be opened up. emoticon-misc-004.gif
I also want to see how well the Jet Dry will work. It should be an interesting (and fun) experiment. Ok, enough of the high-jacking of this thread - we want to see more of
your projects here - not my mods! music037.gif

Posted by: swizz Jan 30 2014, 10:07 AM

I don't mind the highjacking, leather-working a little today since I'm pretty well snowed-in. emoticon-object-024.gif
Just dying the sheath parts today and I ordered some police-grade Herman Oak belt leather to try and make myself a nice belt next.
For the claims.... I think we might do well to set that trommel at the upper pond and dig just upstream from there. I'm itchin to sample it and you wouldn't have to move material far at all. The upper pond is smaller but deeper. My only concern would be the discharge would muddy it up real fast which might effect recovery rate.
We could continue this discussion in one of the claim threads in the Protected Forum if ya want. I have pics of the upper and lower ponds I could post there. Dan has some ideas on how to remedy the settling pond issue, we talked about that recently. With this year's snowpack I'm hoping for a healthier creek flow than last year, hell... Ghost Creek on Woody's old claim might even come back to life.

Posted by: swizz Jan 30 2014, 01:17 PM

Ok.... I dyed all of my sheath pieces. I used Fiebings Pro Oil Dye, Mahogany.
It'll take most of the day to dry, the dark areas are still wet. Once dry I will hand buff them and the color will deepen and be a little darker. Then I'll buff on several coats of Carnuba wax.
This has to be done prior to sewing for obvious reasons.

Posted by: swizz Jan 30 2014, 01:26 PM

oooooo, almost forgot to mention...
I used a hand tool called a "skiver" or "skiving tool" to shave the blunt (square) end of the big piece to a point.
This is because that end will be folded over to create a belt loop and that pointy termination will be tucked in (between the other pieces) all nice and flush. Hard to explain but you'll see why later.

Posted by: swizz Jan 30 2014, 01:46 PM

I would also like to reiterate to anyone following this that might be interested in trying. DO IT!
Really not that difficult to learn and not a huge investment in craft tools.
If it interests you then definitely give it a try. Not just knife sheaths... many things can be crafted from mother nature's leather.
I recommend Ian Atkinson's youtube videos, they are my primary source for instructional tutorials. He even has a short vid explaining what tools are needed to just get started.
The tutorial of his that I'm currently using for this dagger-style sheath is the one for the Rat Cutlery knife which is a similar shaped knife to this Arctic Hunter.
Anyway, if you're interested in learning leather craft definitely check out his vids! His accent is a little difficult at first but you get used to it.
Link: http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCLkCG-505-1t0rYlgBTSnpQ

Posted by: russau Jan 31 2014, 06:32 AM

Chriss this sounds like a perfect hobby for you. being snowed in should be the perfect time to get it done.ive got a 1 car garage out back for my shop and its full of tools and material(yes full!) and theres not enough time or energy in the day to do all i want to do out there(snow or shine!)

Posted by: swizz Jan 31 2014, 06:35 AM

QUOTE (russau @ Jan 31 2014, 05:32 AM) *
.... and theres not enough time or energy in the day to do all i want to do out there(snow or shine!)

Sounds like you're really busy, what ya got goin on?

Posted by: fenixsmom Jan 31 2014, 07:49 AM

You should sell your knives and sheaths. You are extremely talented! You had me with vines and wolf stamp! Speaking of pretty things, that is a gorgeous laker on your wall. How big was he?

Posted by: swizz Jan 31 2014, 08:06 AM

Thanks! I'd like to sell custom knives with sheaths at some point but still trying to perfect these things and can't go into knife production again until I can afford a 2X72 belt grinder (about $1K). I struggle with justifying saving for either a belt grinder.... or a trommel or banker for the claims. I'd like to incorporate lapidary into the knives at some point too... just not quite there yet.
The Laker is about a 3 footer from Lake Granby, not super huge but a fairly good specimen.

Posted by: fenixsmom Jan 31 2014, 08:17 AM

Not bad at all from Granby! Most of them now look like snakes. So thin sad.gif. Ooo tough choice! Sander or trommel.... I would buy the trommel first & belt sander in the late summer. At least you'll have something to do in the next winter.

Posted by: Caveman Jan 31 2014, 01:17 PM

Chris - if it helps, I'll loan the trommel to you for the summer after I bring it up there. I would like to see you get into knife production sooner rather than later - faster
and higher returns on your investment. You will have to supply a pump, though - I will be using mine. Let me know if you are interested.

Posted by: swizz Jan 31 2014, 07:23 PM

Scott, I appreciate that extremely generous offer! Can't do it though.... just wouldn't feel right. Plus I still have a lot of work to do on my damn dams. I believe I will get the belt grinder first though. It will yield a return faster than the trommel and produce throughout the winter months. I might have a killer spring for my business and be able to get both.
You are too cool for offering that Scott. greensmilies-012.gif
I want you up there using it.

Posted by: Caveman Jan 31 2014, 07:51 PM

Will do! I hope to get there two to three times at least..... plus learn more about the process on what we talked about on the phone. That's the real reason for the two wheel
wheelbarrow. I have a real need to learn how to do this properly. The offer will stand - so if you ever want to take me up on it, just let me know. Right now, it's just a fun
machine, not a money-maker. It needs a thorough work-out, and I hope to give it that this year.

Also, thanks! - "Too cool" has never been an adjective used in the same sentence with my name before. smiley-cool14.gif I am humbled. But... careful - my head may get
way too big for my lion skin and I'll have to join the ranks of the "fancy" lads! smiley-laughing021.gif Karen will kill me if I get a kilt and learn to play bagpipes! laught16.gif
And.... I am way too old to start tossing cabers, although - I have been known to huck some very large rocks...... caveman.gif



Posted by: Dypheron Feb 1 2014, 10:02 AM

And you know I'll be up there helping this summer too Chris, I was already planning on getting a pump, no reason why I couldn't let you break it in up there... Seriously though, you're cool enough to extend the offer to prospect on your claim, no reason to not help you out as a thank you. In other words, we want you digging and making knives...at the same time. While balancing a tea cup on your nose. And standing on one leg. While dressed as big bird. Well, maybe not the tea cup.

Scott, we'll have to get together after I get back and maybe drive up there together, split the cost of gas for the weekend. I don't know about you, but 12-16 mpg in the blazer adds up quick on a long trip.

Posted by: Caveman Feb 1 2014, 10:10 AM

QUOTE (Dypheron @ Feb 1 2014, 09:02 AM) *
And you know I'll be up there helping this summer too Chris, I was already planning on getting a pump, no reason why I couldn't let you break it in up there... Seriously though, you're cool enough to extend the offer to prospect on your claim, no reason to not help you out as a thank you. In other words, we want you digging and making knives...at the same time. While balancing a tea cup on your nose. And standing on one leg. While dressed as big bird. Well, maybe not the tea cup.

Scott, we'll have to get together after I get back and maybe drive up there together, split the cost of gas for the weekend. I don't know about you, but 12-16 mpg in the blazer adds up quick on a long trip.



Right there with ya! I was hoping for that. I will let you know.

Posted by: Crusty Feb 1 2014, 01:26 PM

QUOTE (Dypheron @ Feb 1 2014, 09:02 AM) *
Scott, we'll have to get together after I get back and maybe drive up there together, split the cost of gas for the weekend. I don't know about you, but 12-16 mpg in the blazer adds up quick on a long trip.


If y'all got room for a third, I'd love to come help out!


Posted by: Caveman Feb 1 2014, 04:53 PM

I've got problem with that if Chris has no problem..... Might get kinda tight in the truck, though - equipment, 2 dogs, you, a caveman, and a fancy lad! smiley-cool14.gif

I'm sure there's room, though, if Brandon's willing to put the bagpipes in the back...... and leave his caber at home.

Posted by: swizz Feb 1 2014, 07:39 PM

Brandon, I'm sitting here at the ranch licking my wounds from a really challenging day (by old guy standards) and your suggestion honestly had me laughing my arse off out loud in this quiet little cabin. The critters around the cabin are probably thinking I'm on something now. Hell, I was chatting it up with the birds this morning so they all know I'm a nut.
Of course Crusty is more than welcome at my claims! All CP Lifetime members are always welcome. You guys have 40 acres of awesomeness at your disposal with much virgin ground, hard work of course but that's mining. Sometimes not as hard as other times... gotta dig smart. emoticon-misc-004.gif

Posted by: Dypheron Feb 2 2014, 06:17 AM

I may pick up a crew cab truck when I get home, assuming there's something decent up at Al Serra. That would solve the comfortable seating quite nicely I think, and still have plenty of room for gear.


I'm glad you got a good laugh out of it Chris, just because you were talking to the birds doesn't make you crazy. Now, if they start talking back...

Posted by: Crusty Feb 2 2014, 01:42 PM

QUOTE (Caveman @ Feb 1 2014, 03:53 PM) *
I've got problem with that if Chris has no problem..... Might get kinda tight in the truck, though - equipment, 2 dogs, you, a caveman, and a fancy lad! smiley-cool14.gif I'm sure there's room, though, if Brandon's willing to put the bagpipes in the back...... and leave his caber at home.


I don't mind driving either, so I can always follow y'all in my Avalanche.


Posted by: swizz Feb 3 2014, 01:13 PM

ok you goofballs, back to topic..... wink.gif

I'm still in the process of making that sheath and will update.
Meanwhile, I'm working on a quick and fun side project for my taxidermist friend.
I can't shape steel again until I get that 2X72 belt grinder but he wanted this knife so he bought the knife blank and just needs for me to create a handle and sheath. This is a small knife but he says he prefers to quickly dismantle Elk and Bear with this exact knife. The blank is made by Indian River Trading Company, stainless. He said that he wanted an orange/black handle so that it would be easier to deal with when slopped up with hide, fat, blood, etc.
As a note of interest, since I am only fabricating/attaching a handle to a pre-made blade with this project I am not a "Maker" of this knife. The proper term would be "Cutler". A Cutler is not a Knifemaker by technical standards... a Cutler is someone who attaches handles to knives. I am indeed a "Maker"... just not on this little side project. Being a skilled Cutler is prerequisite to Knifemaking.

Posted by: fenixsmom Feb 3 2014, 07:21 PM

I mean to not step on your toes by suggesting this, but what about an ergonomic, nubby, firm gel-ish handle? Hand fatigue and no grip make gutting difficult. My huband does a "boneless quartering" technique that leaves all the skin, bones, innarss and hide behind. He says that his hands get cold and crampy while doing his thing. He uses this scalpel looking knife with replaceable blades and a weak hilt (? Handle). So I imagine the lack of a handle is what's causing issues.
Just being nosey sorry!

Posted by: swizz Feb 4 2014, 11:01 AM

Good questions. There are disadvantages to using soft handle materials. Specifically durability, extreme temperature/environment tolerance, chemical resistance, and longevity.
When a good maker or cutler releases a knife or sword to the world he or she wants it to last for well over 100yrs... and that means even if it were lost in the woods or a river for many years. It needs to survive the test of time and abuse long after the maker is gone.
So... with that in mind I prefer to use very rigid and stable materials for my works and can shape them to any ergonomic preference. I like organic materials like wood, bone, and hopefully minerals once I get established but not opposed to good synthetics designed for knifemaking like G-10, Micarta, or Carbon Fiber. I do not like plastics, plastic/gem composites (although some composites are very good), or rubber... that's for the cheap disposable cutlery that factories crank out. Any maker worth their salt uses high grade materials for handles.
Here's a link to one of my supplier's list of handle materials, some are pre-textured for grip but I can texture about anything: http://www.knifemaking.com/category-s/4.htm

Posted by: fenixsmom Feb 4 2014, 11:12 AM

Good point. I Never considered durability and longevity.

Posted by: swizz Feb 4 2014, 11:35 AM

QUOTE (fenixsmom @ Feb 3 2014, 06:21 PM) *
Hand fatigue and no grip make gutting difficult. My husband does a "boneless quartering" technique that leaves all the skin, bones, innards and hide behind. He says that his hands get cold and crampy while doing his thing.

In this case I would recommend a handle design similar to the Damascus Arctic Hunter (pg. 12) that I pictured recently in this thread (same one I'm making a sheath for now). That's a hunter/skinner designed with an oversized ergonomic handle and the finger grips are intentionally set further apart so that it is most useful while wearing gloves and field dressing a Caribou during an arctic blizzard. It's more comfortable to grip when wearing gloves, very firm in the hand. Feels too big and less comfortable without gloves.
I'm not suggesting that "blade" shape for him but giving an example of the oversized handle designed for cold/wet conditions when wearing gloves is practical while field dressing. I don't think that any "knife companies" sell anything specifically made to be used with gloves but I could be wrong on that.

Posted by: swizz Feb 4 2014, 12:02 PM

QUOTE (fenixsmom @ Feb 4 2014, 10:12 AM) *
Good point. I Never considered durability and longevity.

I have a good example of that which I'm also working on.
This is an old Bowie (at least 50yrs) made by Solingen, a German company. A friend bought it at a garage sale for 5 or 10 bucks. In that condition it isn't worth anything more than that.
Judging by the condition I would say that this one has been exposed to water or corrosives for a long period of time, maybe lost in the woods. The steel is deeply pitted... however, I was very surprised to note that it is still very sharp and appears to have never been sharpened. This tells me that it is very good German steel. Worth restoring? Probably not, but I can't stand to throw things away and it'll be a fun project. The broken handle is plastic... fake bone, junk! The tiny guard is brass, as is the pommel screw, both useless. The original pommel (end cap) is missing. The black and white spacer material is plastic, junk! So ya, even though this is what I would consider excellent steel, they used garbage mass production materials and the handle assembly eventually broke apart.
The fist with three arrows is an awesome maker's mark though.
I have some ideas for it though and will resurrect it like a fiery Phoenix! It will live again, it deserves to.








Posted by: fenixsmom Feb 4 2014, 12:10 PM

I think it would be a great restoration project! Can't waste good steel!

Posted by: fenixsmom Feb 4 2014, 12:19 PM

Just a fyi: your knife was made around the 1950s by a company called PIC precision international corporation. They where from Solagin (?) Germany

Posted by: fenixsmom Feb 4 2014, 12:20 PM

The tang stamp helped me find it thumbsupsmileyanim.gif

Posted by: swizz Feb 4 2014, 12:22 PM

Interesting, how was PIC affiliated with Solingen?

Posted by: swizz Feb 4 2014, 12:25 PM

QUOTE (fenixsmom @ Feb 4 2014, 11:20 AM) *
The tang stamp helped me find it thumbsupsmileyanim.gif

no, the "tang" is what the handle goes on. That stamp is on the "ricasso".
http://www.jayfisher.com/Knife_Anatomy_Parts_Names_Definitions.htm

Posted by: fenixsmom Feb 4 2014, 12:26 PM

They came from the town of Solingen

Posted by: fenixsmom Feb 4 2014, 12:27 PM

Oh, other people in knife forums referred to them as tang stamps. :) I'm researching on the fly!

Posted by: swizz Feb 4 2014, 12:32 PM

There are stamps on the "tang" also.... I cleaned up the steel a little. Not sure of what significance those numbers are.
I knew about the town of Solingen, known for knifemaking. Too bad the world introduced them to plastic, lol.


Posted by: fenixsmom Feb 4 2014, 12:40 PM

The 6 is.the handle type to be used, synthetic bone in your case and the 21 is the pattern to be used.

Posted by: swizz Feb 4 2014, 12:42 PM

damn, you're good! research.gif

Posted by: swizz Feb 4 2014, 12:44 PM

I had posted this on my fav knifemaking forum a while back and didn't get this much information. thumbsupsmileyanim.gif

Posted by: fenixsmom Feb 4 2014, 12:45 PM

Just internet savvy. laurel_and_hardy.gif

Posted by: OklaPony Feb 6 2014, 11:28 AM

Seems like it could be a lot newer than 50 years. One of the ways we date German musical instruments (usually violins, violas, and such) is whether or not the country of manufacture is listed with or with out W. or West preceding Germany. Pre WWII will not have such an identifier and neither will post 1989-ish pieces but anything in between will always have such a mark. The presence of plastics I think would most likely point it to post 1989 as opposed to pre WWII.

Is it possible the plastic is actually celluloid?

And, since I really don't know a damn thing about the history of German cutlery, are there known examples of pre WWII blades whose markings behave in a similar fashion to what I've outlined?

Posted by: Dypheron Feb 6 2014, 12:05 PM

QUOTE (fenixsmom @ Feb 4 2014, 11:45 AM) *
Just internet savvy. laurel_and_hardy.gif


Watch out using those fancy smileys around Chris, next thing you know he'll be giving you a ridiculous name and calling you fancy lass. smiley-laughing021.gif

Posted by: fenixsmom Feb 6 2014, 12:09 PM

"Lil' Miss Fancy Pants" haha!

Posted by: fenixsmom Feb 6 2014, 12:13 PM

QUOTE (OklaPony @ Feb 6 2014, 10:28 AM) *
Seems like it could be a lot newer than 50 years. One of the ways we date German musical instruments (usually violins, violas, and such) is whether or not the country of manufacture is listed with or with out W. or West preceding Germany. Pre WWII will not have such an identifier and neither will post 1989-ish pieces but anything in between will always have such a mark. The presence of plastics I think would most likely point it to post 1989 as opposed to pre WWII.

Is it possible the plastic is actually celluloid?

And, since I really don't know a damn thing about the history of German cutlery, are there known examples of pre WWII blades whose markings behave in a similar fashion to what I've outlined?

P.I.C was bought out by another company later in its years, sone swiss company I think. I'll have to research it's history. It's a great possibility that they retained their tang stamp post buy out. I'll research and let you know!

Posted by: fenixsmom Feb 6 2014, 12:23 PM

Well I was completely wrong! (It's been known to happen!) The knife was made on the 50s. It was made by the Solingen knife company. Here's some info on the company. http://sharky-fourbees.blogspot.com/2011/03/baron-hunting-knife-solingen-germany.html?m=1. The tang stamp is conflicting though. That knife of yours is worth $500+ in good condition it isn't plastic, it's stag antler, which makes sense.

Posted by: swizz Feb 6 2014, 12:46 PM

Oh, it's definitely fake antler... doesn't even look real. I melted it with a lighter, standard hard plastic.
The guy didn't specify how he wanted me to resto-mod it. He knows nothing about knives and said something like "whatever you think will work best".
I'm going to install a stacked-leather handle with brass guard and brass pommel. I'll make a sheath for it too.
If he doesn't barter or pay accordingly I'll keep it. It'll always have that pitted metal patina but still worthy of hard use. Good looking Bowie profile in my opinion.
But no, I don't think it's valuable as a vintage collectible per se, regardless the condition. Close but no cigar. groucho.gif
My guess would be 1950s or 60s.

Posted by: fenixsmom Feb 6 2014, 01:01 PM

Well you know better than I! Good luck with the restoration!

Posted by: Caveman Feb 6 2014, 07:26 PM

Chris, that knife is going to look really good after you are done with it. If the customer doesn't come through with the trade or cash, I would like to work out something with
you for it. Let me know if you are interested.....

Posted by: swizz Feb 6 2014, 07:39 PM

The Solingen Bowie?

Posted by: Caveman Feb 6 2014, 07:49 PM

Yes - I do not currently own a Bowie, and that old, pitted, and with a leather grip suits my style.....

Posted by: swizz Feb 6 2014, 09:15 PM

QUOTE (Caveman @ Feb 6 2014, 06:49 PM) *
Yes - I do not currently own a Bowie, and that old, pitted, and with a leather grip suits my style.....

Ha, I'm right with you there. I've never had a Bowie either and the patina is kinda cool. I'll keep you in mind for sure Scott.
That one's still on the back burner. Today I got caught up on that Arctic Hunter sheath and might finish it tomorrow if I have time.
I also made myself a belt from some thick Sherman Oak leather. It's 10oz thick and 1.5" wide. I put a big ass shiny buckle on it so I can finally get that cowgirl I've always wanted.
I was pricing heavy duty belts similar to this last year at around $70-$100. I made this one for less than $20 with my wholesale pricing and (dare I say) it's better quality than what I was looking at, even the Duluth Trading Company belts. No fancy stamping on this, pure function.
Anyway, this one will be nice to hang the pea shooter from. char092.gif

Posted by: traddoerr Feb 6 2014, 11:01 PM

Chris, my son and I have been following your knife making thread from the begining, we to are puting to gether a knife for him and I, but we have purchased the blades ourselves that are already made, just need sharpening. this has been one of the most informative threads to follow, thanks, when we get to a couple points we will post what we have done if you don't mind, and will need your advise on some of the processes to finishing a blade. thumbsupsmileyanim.gif

Posted by: swizz Feb 7 2014, 05:28 AM

That is awesome! thumbsupsmileyanim.gif You guys are really going to cherish those when you're done.
Yes, by all means... ask away if you have any questions. I'm glad to help if I can.

Posted by: Crusty Feb 7 2014, 09:25 AM

QUOTE (swizz @ Feb 4 2014, 11:02 AM) *
I have a good example of that which I'm also working on.



That'll make a pretty sweet utility blade! Bad thing about having a pretty new knife is you're afraid to ding it up, so that one would get a lot of use! Can't wait to see what you do with it!

Posted by: Caveman Feb 7 2014, 11:30 AM

Awesome belt, Chris! Have you tried/thought about making holsters yet? If so, you have a customer!

Posted by: swizz Feb 7 2014, 12:29 PM

QUOTE (Caveman @ Feb 7 2014, 10:30 AM) *
Awesome belt, Chris! Have you tried/thought about making holsters yet? If so, you have a customer!

Yes! I currently have pancake-holster patterns for Glock, Springfield XD, Smith & Wesson M&P, Kahr 9, and 1911 styles.
It's also on the back burner but I'd like to make a holster for my Glock by springtime. I might have to buy 'blue guns' (plastic replicas) for form-fitting purposes though.

Posted by: Crusty Feb 7 2014, 03:08 PM

QUOTE (swizz @ Feb 7 2014, 11:29 AM) *
Yes! I currently have pancake-holster patterns for Glock, Springfield XD, Smith & Wesson M&P, Kahr 9, and 1911 styles.
It's also on the back burner but I'd like to make a holster for my Glock by springtime. I might have to buy 'blue guns' (plastic replicas) for form-fitting purposes though.



Sounds like you need to take up cloning, so you get get all that stuff off the back burner! ;)

Posted by: swizz Feb 7 2014, 04:22 PM

LOL, nah that wouldn't be any fun.
Not happy unless all burners are on full blast.

Posted by: fenixsmom Feb 7 2014, 04:58 PM

Hey Chris, I've heard that you can use a belt to sharpen your knives. I have a cheapo V sharpener that shaves quite a bit bit of metal off with every sharpening. I know the stick sharpener is preferable for home use, but I'm looking for an alternative to recutting the edge every time I need to sharpen..

Posted by: Caveman Feb 7 2014, 06:28 PM

Stone and ceramics are best for sharpening, diamond stones for mass metal removal or touch up (depending on coarseness) and steel for touch up w/o removing metal.

Chris - how about a western holster?

Posted by: swizz Feb 7 2014, 06:44 PM

QUOTE (Caveman @ Feb 7 2014, 05:28 PM) *
Chris - how about a western holster?

That's out of my league for now... really a lot of things to learn before I can tackle westerns.
As far as sharpening, I'm not an expert on that. If I need to redefine a cutting edge I use three separate flat sharpening stones - coarse, medium, and a fine Arkansas honing stone. Once that edge is established I fine tune it with a standard sharpening steel. The next step is leather strop but I don't have one.
90% of the time I go right for the sharpening steel to touch up an edge, works great. I don't have any experience with the diamond products or v-rods.

Posted by: fenixsmom Feb 7 2014, 06:53 PM

I have a carbide sharpener I do believe. My glass (doh!) Cutting board kills my knife. Fortunately it's not an expensive blade to begin with. It'll just be good info for when I have a nicer set up.

Posted by: Dypheron Feb 8 2014, 05:03 AM

QUOTE (swizz @ Feb 4 2014, 11:44 AM) *
I had posted this on my fav knifemaking forum a while back and didn't get this much information. thumbsupsmileyanim.gif


I came across that thread today actually, was reading a thread about something else and decided to poke around. Small world.

Posted by: Mrs.CP Feb 8 2014, 08:17 AM

Your projects are coming along great Chris!! Looks like its kicking into high gear. thumbsupsmileyanim.gif There will be no stopping you when you get the rest of the equipment needed. emoticon-object-009.gif

Posted by: swizz Feb 8 2014, 10:10 AM

Thank you! I have to go to the ranch for another stay and unfortunately will have to put all this on hold until I get back.
Huge snowstorm here today... I might have enough time to saddle-stitch and burnish that Arctic Hunter sheath before I git, it's almost done. It's been my most challenging leather project to date. Learning some new skills with that one.

Posted by: Caveman Feb 8 2014, 02:01 PM

Glass cutting board? Oh my - brutal on a knife edge. We have gone back to wood. Yes, they are higher maintenance, but worth the effort! We use block oil on them, and
they stay nice.

Posted by: swizz Feb 11 2014, 06:10 PM

I finished that sheath for the Damascus Arctic Hunter. I'll need to take some time tomorrow and update with pics for anyone interested in the rest of that process or how it turned out.
Next on the bench is this large kitchen knife. This is a pre-made blank that I bought and is pretty nice quality. All that I'm going to do is shape the tang and attach handle scales and it'll be done. I'm just a "Cutler" on this build, not a "Maker". If it turns out nice I'm going to send it to Ma for her birthday in a couple of months. I'm going to be using Ironwood for the scales. It's possibly the hardest wood on the planet and I bought some "presentation grade" so it should buff out nice. Part of the reason I chose Ironwood is because it's the name of the town I grew up in (good ol U.P.) and where my parents still reside!
In this pic I'm just getting started. I don't like the shape of the handle tang so I'm about to take the Dremel to it and make some fluid curves that are more ergonomic, comfortable, and purty. I used a green sharpie to outline what I plan to remove.... just gotta find a bit that will eat it.
Hard steel - Japanese 440C stainless.

Posted by: ColoradoProspector Feb 11 2014, 07:53 PM

Custom ironwood handles going to mom in Ironwood. signs021.gif That is some really hard wood, I bet this project will be a sweet one when finished too!
Look forward to seeing it.

Posted by: russau Feb 12 2014, 05:12 AM

theres NOTHING better than something you made for your parents! it shows that your still thinking of them when you made it! thats "priceless"

Posted by: Caveman Feb 12 2014, 09:01 AM

I can't wait until you done with that, either. And I'm still waiting on the pic's of the Solingen Bowie and new sheath! eating-popcorn-03.gif

Posted by: swizz Feb 12 2014, 09:31 AM

QUOTE (Caveman @ Feb 12 2014, 08:01 AM) *
And I'm still waiting on the pic's of the Solingen Bowie and new sheath! eating-popcorn-03.gif

You better get some more popcorn then cuz it might be a while on that one. Everything I'll be doing will be "out of pocket expense" so it's lower on the food chain. Maybe in the next month or two? If biz gets bizzy again the bench will have to collect dust though. Trying to utilize every minute of free time to stave off the cabin fever with these projects for now, keeps the gears turning.
I'll definitely update when I get rolling with that though!

Posted by: Caveman Feb 12 2014, 11:13 AM

I'll go stock up! And hope that you get bored...... you'll finish it then! happy112.gif

Posted by: russau Feb 12 2014, 07:04 PM

:) Quality takes time! :) thats why im so slow!:)

Posted by: swizz Mar 4 2014, 04:13 PM

I got a great deal on this 4X36 belt sander from Harbor Freight last week and it's going to speed up my work considerably.
It's not mean enough to work metal but so very nice for woodworking. Will make handle shaping a breeze! thumbsupsmileyanim.gif
Also has a 6" sanding disc for the side but I haven't mounted it yet... I'll use that for leather work. The belt tilts from vertical to horizontal and everywhere in between. About 1200rpm.
With a coupon I got this thing for only $59! Really gonna make my life a lot easier. happy.gif

Posted by: fenixsmom Mar 4 2014, 06:08 PM

Nice!!!!!

Posted by: traddoerr Mar 4 2014, 08:48 PM

Nice Chris! I have a Ryobi(sp) and it sure does cut work time in half, I used mine for some metal shaping(welding) but I have a different type of belt, its called diamond Carbon something or another, I'll see if I still have the package and get that info to you. You are going to love this thing! thumbsupsmileyanim.gif

Posted by: traddoerr Mar 5 2014, 04:41 PM

I forgot to ask, do you sharpen the blade before you polish it or after- i was thinking after. My son and I are working with a blade from an old knife and I'm going to have to grind down the edge as it has some nicks in it. Finally found a nice piece of deer antler for the handle, I'll try to post photo's this weekend on what we've done so far. Thanks for any advise you can give us.

Posted by: swizz Mar 8 2014, 08:49 AM

Hi!
If you're working on a knife with an old blade... you are working on hardened steel. I would highly recommend 'not' to put a mechanical grinder to that steel unless you have 2X72 belt grinder with specialized belts. Any other mechanical device typically removes too much metal fast and generates friction heat that can radically effect the temper of the steel thus leaving you with either a brittle edge or one that is too soft and won't hold an edge.
If you can re-establish or resurrect the original cutting edge, I think that would be best if possible. You should be able to do that with good sharpening stones. If it's in rough shape with nicks, dings, etc you'll want to start with a coarse stone. I use a Smith's Tri-Stone for this which has coarse, med, and fine stones. I'll be having to do this on the Bowie restoration that I pictured earlier. That one's in ruff shape and will probably take me at least an hour with the coarse stone alone. Probably at least a half hour with each of the other stones and finally a sharpening steel for the final razor edge.
I'd love to see some pics of your project!

Posted by: traddoerr Mar 9 2014, 12:27 AM

Thanks for the feed back Chris, I didn't think about possibley over heating the blade, I have a good stone kit so I'll just take the time and work it with that. I'll try to get some pic's up soon, was way to busy today. Once again thanks for the info.

Posted by: Dypheron Mar 9 2014, 09:19 AM

QUOTE (swizz @ Mar 4 2014, 05:13 PM) *
I got a great deal on this 4X36 belt sander from Harbor Freight last week and it's going to speed up my work considerably.
It's not mean enough to work metal but so very nice for woodworking. Will make handle shaping a breeze! thumbsupsmileyanim.gif
Also has a 6" sanding disc for the side but I haven't mounted it yet... I'll use that for leather work. The belt tilts from vertical to horizontal and everywhere in between. About 1200rpm.
With a coupon I got this thing for only $59! Really gonna make my life a lot easier. happy.gif


I've found that with any power tool from harbor freight if it doesn't break the first time you use it then it'll probably last a good while if you treat it right. I'd steer clear of their sanding belts though, I bought a pack for my hand held belt sander and they were junk. Which is surprising, their regular sand paper (especially the fine grit) is actually pretty decent for the price.

Chris, if you decide you want to upgrade to a proper belt grinder I think I have some plans floating around in the garage for a homebuilt one, it'd be a good excuse to get out the welder and make something.

Posted by: russau Mar 9 2014, 12:28 PM

there are plans/pictures of one bilt on treasurenet.com in one of the forums. i dont need one but id like to have one for tinkering around. on Harbor Freight tools, if you treat them right and dont use them everyday for makeing a living, they should last a good while. i think Swizz useing on handles and light sanding would work fine! it was cheap($$) enough! i had bought some tools that i wanted to use just a couple of times (?) and some worked fine while others (air impact hammers spring) kept breaking! i followed all the directions and they all broke! But they did replace all of the many broken springs that i bought to finish the job.i even turned the air down real low to help prevent this from happening. it broke about 8 springs and they all were made in china. so i guess that answers the big question!

Posted by: fenixsmom Mar 9 2014, 06:27 PM

Oh sure Russau, blame the Chinese! greensmilies-025.gif

Posted by: traddoerr Mar 14 2014, 10:34 PM

swizz, sorry I haven't put up any photo's yet, but will. question, we are using a tang or stem style blade. So with using the deer antler, lower half of main beam W/burr end, do you drilll a shaft/void for stem to fit in snug and then brass pin/glue or just glue? not sure the epoxy will hold without pins. Thanks for your advise.

Posted by: swizz Mar 15 2014, 05:34 AM

Stick tang.... I'm definitely not an expert on these as this Bowie restoration is the first I've worked on. If the tang is flat you can either give it one pin toward the front of the tang (near your guard), or put a pommel at the end of the handle to keep it on. If it's a rod shaped tang you can't pin it... will need a pommel on the end.
Yes, you'll need to bore a hole in that antler lengthwise to snuggle the tang into and fill er up with epoxy. Use a very good epoxy like Acraglas or Gorilla (Devcon, Locktite, JB Weld not recommended). If you choose to drill the tang it may be very difficult depending on the hardness of the tempered steel of that knife. Typically drilled prior to heat treatment.

Posted by: traddoerr Mar 15 2014, 08:06 AM

QUOTE (swizz @ Mar 15 2014, 06:34 AM) *
Stick tang.... I'm definitely not an expert on these as this Bowie restoration is the first I've worked on. If the tang is flat you can either give it one pin toward the front of the tang (near your guard), or put a pommel at the end of the handle to keep it on. If it's a rod shaped tang you can't pin it... will need a pommel on the end.
Yes, you'll need to bore a hole in that antler lengthwise to snuggle the tang into and fill er up with epoxy. Use a very good epoxy like Acraglas or Gorilla (Devcon, Locktite, JB Weld not recommended). If you choose to drill the tang it may be very difficult depending on the hardness of the tempered steel of that knife. Typically drilled prior to heat treatment.


Thanks swizz, it is a flat tang with some holes already in it, we were planning on using Gorilla, I think that we may put the pin towards the front as we may put a brass cap before the gaurd just to make it flow together, once again thanks for the info.

Posted by: swizz Mar 15 2014, 08:36 AM

That sounds like a good plan!
Here's where I'm currently at with the Bowie restoration.
Stabilized stacked leather handle, red/white/black vulcanized spacer material, brass guard and pommel. I still have a LOT of shaping left to do on this handle, mostly with Dremel.

Posted by: swizz Mar 15 2014, 08:46 AM

Regarding the guard, if you decide to use one. Fitting and placing a guard is a project within itself. I used jeweler's files to fit the brass one pictured.... it took a long time to get it to fit well, the slot needs to be as perfect as you can get it. Once that's accomplished it should be soldered (or JB Welded) in place before assembling the rest of your handle.

Posted by: professor_kosher Mar 15 2014, 09:47 AM

really nice stuff u got here swizz, i wish i had the proper equipment for this kinda stuff, i buy my tools one project at a time, construction worker on a budjet, the last project i had was i painted my own car, mainly cuz everyone doubted me. for some odd reason most pople think if u can paint a house you CANNOT paint a car. haha but i think it turned out great hahaha


 

Posted by: swizz Mar 15 2014, 10:31 AM

I like it! thumbsupsmileyanim.gif

Posted by: professor_kosher Mar 15 2014, 11:11 AM

ur next project you should really go balls out and do something extreme like this

 

Posted by: swizz Mar 15 2014, 07:05 PM

I'm not into the fantasy stuff but there is a whole genre for that. I'd rather go balls out on a drop-point hunter or skinner that I can use and abuse.

Posted by: Caveman Mar 16 2014, 09:28 AM

Chris - that Bowie is looking great. I also agree that the fantasy stuff is out there, but you'd be surprised at just how good a large animal deterrent a good mace makes!

Posted by: traddoerr Mar 16 2014, 10:08 AM

swizz, you couldn't see yourself attacking those wood piles with an axe like that one! you would feel like Conan the Barbain chopping fire wood laughing021:

not to mention the work out you'd get swinging one like that!

Posted by: fenixsmom Mar 16 2014, 10:47 AM

Come on Swizz, nothing screams "I am all that is man" like a battle axe!!!

Posted by: swizz Mar 29 2014, 09:59 AM

Currently shaping the handle on that bowie restoration.
https://flic.kr/p/mxZqD4

Posted by: Caveman Mar 29 2014, 11:14 AM

It looks AWSOME! Nice job, Chris. thumbsupsmileyanim.gif

Posted by: swizz Mar 29 2014, 11:55 AM

Thanks Scott! I still need to round out that handle some more and I'm going to do a little shaping of the brass pommel.
Then a ton of hand sanding, buffing, and polishing.
Such a nice day up here today I feel guilty for being inside. unsure.gif

Posted by: Caveman Mar 29 2014, 12:55 PM

I'm heading out to plant some trees..... American Filberts, plus maybe a few others....

Posted by: ColoradoProspector Mar 29 2014, 03:19 PM

That Bowie knife looks spectacular so far Chris, nice work! Going to be a sweet one when finished, look forward to seeing it done. thumbsupsmileyanim.gif

Posted by: russau Mar 30 2014, 06:01 AM

your project looks so good i can almost feel it in my hands!

Posted by: Mrs.CP Mar 30 2014, 07:27 AM

QUOTE (swizz @ Mar 29 2014, 09:59 AM) *
Currently shaping the handle on that bowie restoration.
https://flic.kr/p/mxZqD4


Looking good Chris! Going to be one sweet knife when your finished!! happy088.gif
eating-popcorn-03.gif

Posted by: swizz Apr 1 2014, 02:09 PM

Thanks! Still a ways to go. I'm using the dremel to shape that brass pommel now.
https://flic.kr/p/mEUG7A

Posted by: Caveman Apr 1 2014, 09:41 PM

Looking great!

Posted by: Mrs.CP Apr 2 2014, 09:54 AM

Very nice Chris! You also use the Dremel to polish it out when your finished shaping it right? Was using our Dremel to polish out the pick of destiny with the homemade polishing bit and it about ate off the skin on my fingers with just 2 minutes of using it. smiley-shocked003.gif
Need to think of a better way to work the pieces without holding them like you do.

Posted by: swizz Apr 28 2014, 05:47 PM

Yup, definitely lots of Dremel work on that Bowie pommel! That Bowie is 100% done, sheathed, and ready. I'll do a photo session with it soon.

Meanwhile... here are pics of the kitchen knife and sheath I made for my Mom's birthday which is the middle of May. It's ready to ship!
I made a counter-top type of sheath and I figured she can safely transport it to their cottage up there if she wants to.

https://flic.kr/p/nrUxMZhttps://flic.kr/p/nrUxMZ by https://www.flickr.com/people/121086004@N07/, on Flickr

https://flic.kr/p/npRtWEhttps://flic.kr/p/npRtWE by https://www.flickr.com/people/121086004@N07/, on Flickr

https://flic.kr/p/nq8U2ehttps://flic.kr/p/nq8U2e by https://www.flickr.com/people/121086004@N07/, on Flickr

https://flic.kr/p/no6i6jhttps://flic.kr/p/no6i6j by https://www.flickr.com/people/121086004@N07/, on Flickr


Posted by: ColoradoProspector Apr 28 2014, 05:57 PM

Stunning!! smiley-shocked003.gif Nice work Chris, I bet Mom's going to love the gift. thumbsupsmileyanim.gif

Posted by: Caveman Apr 28 2014, 07:38 PM

That is very beautiful work, Chris! Your mom's going to love it.

Posted by: swizz Apr 29 2014, 08:21 AM

Thanks! It was a really fun project.
I forgot to add a pic of the mosaic pins that I used. They are made of Brass and Nickel Silver. I did not make the pins.... there are artists that specialize in this and depending on pattern and diameter the pin/rod material can cost a lot. I paid about $40 for a 1ft section of this style mosaic, I think it's 3/32" dia.
1ft will go a long way with knifemaking though... several knives.
https://flic.kr/p/nqN2dnhttps://flic.kr/p/nqN2dn by https://www.flickr.com/people/121086004@N07/, on Flickr

Posted by: swizz Apr 29 2014, 09:37 AM

Here are the pics of that Bowie resto-mod that I did and the sheath I made for it.
The owner bailed-out on me halfway through the project so it's officially mine! I paid him $20 for the Solingen since he mentioned that he paid $10 or $15 for it at a garage sale when it was in such rough shape. I like it and will wear it on my gun belt at the mine to be used as a utility/camp knife.
I didn't fight the pitting on the blade because I like the patina. It took a full day but I resurrected a very good cutting edge on it as the last step. So sharp it scares me.
Anyway, here's the final product.
https://flic.kr/p/nrWKykhttps://flic.kr/p/nrWKyk by https://www.flickr.com/people/121086004@N07/, on Flickr

https://flic.kr/p/nrWKAKhttps://flic.kr/p/nrWKAK by https://www.flickr.com/people/121086004@N07/, on Flickr

https://flic.kr/p/nrWKznhttps://flic.kr/p/nrWKzn by https://www.flickr.com/people/121086004@N07/, on Flickr

https://flic.kr/p/npTEW1https://flic.kr/p/npTEW1 by https://www.flickr.com/people/121086004@N07/, on Flickr

https://flic.kr/p/no8uKYhttps://flic.kr/p/no8uKY by https://www.flickr.com/people/121086004@N07/, on Flickr

Posted by: Caveman Apr 29 2014, 10:59 AM

Now, THAT'S a knife! (said with a very exaggerated Australian accent) thumbsupsmileyanim.gif Very well done, Chris, very impressive.

Posted by: Mrs.CP Apr 30 2014, 06:46 AM

worthy.gif Fantastic work Chris! Mom will cherish that one forever!! The detail is superb on your work, I can't even believe that is the same knife that you restored...... Incredible difference! thumbsupsmileyanim.gif

Posted by: swizz Apr 30 2014, 08:16 AM

Thanks! I think my Mom would like the knife even if it were crummy. slaphead.gif She's a sweetheart.
I'm still cooped up here because it's been snowing with high winds since Saturday, driving me nuts... my log project is shut down until weather breaks.
So...
working on a new sheath design this morning


Posted by: russau Apr 30 2014, 01:09 PM

even with the pitting on the blade ,thats a fine knife and some wonderfull work youve added. to bad the "old" owner bailed on you,but itll be a fine peice to carry!

Posted by: swizz Apr 30 2014, 02:16 PM

QUOTE (russau @ Apr 30 2014, 01:09 PM) *
to bad the "old" owner bailed on you....

I'm glad he did! thumbsupsmileyanim.gif

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