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Knife Making
amorton
post Jul 5 2012, 02:03 PM
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Are you planning on doing leather or Kydex for the sheath? I have had success using both for shaped gun holsters I have made in the past.
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swizz
post Jul 5 2012, 04:10 PM
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Kydex wouldn't look right with this knife... definitely leather. I am not fabricating my own sheaths yet but certainly will be in the future. It's a different artform... not quite ready to dip in yet. I have purchased a leather sheath for this one.
I like the look and functionality of Kydex but more for tactical items. I may try to fabricate a Kydex leg holster for my Glock. happy088.gif char092.gif


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swizz
post Jul 5 2012, 05:27 PM
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ok... the epoxy has cured and I've drilled through the two smaller holes (and through the wood handle side) - these will be for the brass rods which will be epoxied and ball-peined into place after the other half of the handle is installed. The third hole is for a lanyard if I chose to include it. I've decided not to include a lanyard on this knife, so that hole won't be drilled. Considering the blade style, I think it will look better/cleaner without.... and I don't really use them.
Next I will epoxy the other handle side. When it sets I will drill through it using the holes I just made as my guide.
Anyone notice that the blade-edge and point have been concealed with Gorilla Tape through this entire process? There's a good reason for that. spock.gif


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swizz
post Jul 5 2012, 05:41 PM
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oops... I accidentally double-posted. blush.gif


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swizz
post Jul 6 2012, 06:35 AM
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Burl figures.... unfortunately this side will be epoxied down and not seen again. Before installing I noticed this burl impression of what looks like a critter head (manbearpig, haha). Can also make out what looks like a deer with antlers immediately below the critter head. Now I'm wishin' this was the exposed side of the handle, oh well...


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Denise
post Jul 6 2012, 10:18 AM
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QUOTE (swizz @ Jul 5 2012, 05:27 PM) *
Anyone notice that the blade-edge and point have been concealed with Gorilla Tape through this entire process? There's a good reason for that. spock.gif


I noticed that, just thought it was to keep you from slicing yourself while working on it.... Especially if you are clutsy as I am.
Ha! That pattern definately looks like a startled pig! laugh.gif Some days it will take me several hours just placing a pattern on a rock I want to cut. Too many good choices to choose from. That's going to be one sweet knife Chris! thumbsupsmileyanim.gif


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swizz
post Jul 7 2012, 07:06 AM
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QUOTE (Mrs.CP @ Jul 6 2012, 10:18 AM) *
I noticed that, just thought it was to keep you from slicing yourself while working on it....


YES, that is totally why. One slip with the bench grinder or drill and a person could lose or severely damage a finger or two in a heartbeat.


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OklaPony
post Jul 7 2012, 07:27 AM
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That looks very nice! I'm anxious to know / see what method you're going to use to finish the wood.
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swizz
post Jul 7 2012, 07:43 AM
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QUOTE (OklaPony @ Jul 7 2012, 07:27 AM) *
That looks very nice! I'm anxious to know / see what method you're going to use to finish the wood.

Hi pony!
I will be finishing this wood in the same manner that rifle stocks are finished.
I'll sand it down to 600 grit (or finer) first. This burl is very closed-grained so it takes a sanding well. I will moisten the wood between sanding grits to raise the grain.... knocking it back down with each finer grit.
Prep coats will include one coat Minwax Pre-Stain treatment. Next one coat of Minwax (natural color) Stain. This will bring depth and richness to the grain without changing the color. Next I will apply numerous coats of Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil.... then followed by several buff coats of Birchwood Casey Gun Stock Wax for protection and luster. Maintenance will be the same as gun stock maintenance.... just re-apply Gun Stock wax and buff occasionally, depending on use and abuse.


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swizz
post Jul 7 2012, 11:39 AM
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The handle sides are both in place and I've cut brass rods for the rivets.
They are about 1/8" longer on each side so that I can peen them tight on both sides. I will lightly coat the brass rods with wet epoxy before the peening.
The handle is not shaped and sanded to the tang yet, so it's still crude. I will do this after peening... sanding down the rods flat to the handle in the process.


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swizz
post Jul 7 2012, 12:17 PM
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Peening expands the brass rods for a super tight fit. I used the flat-head side of the hammer for this since I'm not trying to 'round' the brass ends... they will be ground/sanded flat to the handle.
In the first pic you can see the expansion of the brass.


Denise,take a close look at this pic. It is the flip-side of the "scared pig" burl. I'm starting to see... well, I'll let you decide. chin.gif It should be interesting once I sand it a bit.


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swizz
post Jul 7 2012, 12:57 PM
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Next....

I have the knife back in the table vise for some sanding. Here I'm using a Flex Dremel with a barrel-sanding bit to get the wood flush with the tang. I don't want to sand my brass or sides until that epoxy has fully cured.


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swizz
post Jul 7 2012, 01:56 PM
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There are many different tools or sanders you can use to work the handle.... files, Dremel, sanding blocks, handheld electric sanders, etc., it's basic woodwork. I'm just using what I have in my arsenal.
I'm getting close to the tang now so I've switched to an orbital finishing sander as the Dremel is too abrasive and scarring. Eventually it will come down to hand-sanding for the final finish.



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Denise
post Jul 7 2012, 02:05 PM
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That's turning out great! Your updates of tips, pictures and techniques are awesome Chris. I'm sure there are several other talented people in the forum here scratching their heads thinking........ chin.gif I bet I could do that! thumbsupsmileyanim.gif

The startled pig must have seen his evil wild boar cousin on the other side. laugh.gif

You are a very talented inspiration Chris! Thanks for sharing your work with us!!
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swizz
post Jul 8 2012, 08:54 AM
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Thanks! I'm hoping that maybe some other folk here might want to try it. Many of us are very outdoorsy and crafty and I think it fits well. You and Dan would be naturals at it, try! It's not really hard to make a basic functional knife and it's a lot of fun. Don't "need" a bunch of tools or money either... heck, the early settlers and cowpoke made some excellent knives back in the day without a fraction of the tool resources or electricity that we now have. The build I'm working on here is going to end up costing me less than $30 total.. and that's only because I had to buy the steel and wood.... and added the vine-pattern which will require purchasing epoxy pigment. I won the "Western Skinner" knife blank on eBay for $6.51 (such a deal for heat-treated 440C!!!), and (also on eBay) purchased the handle slabs (scales) for about $10. I spent a couple of bucks on the right sized brass rods for the handle scales... which I can also use on future builds. I'd like to make some nice kitchen knives at some point too.

For now, I won't be able to update progress much until later in the week. I may add another (smaller) brass rivet to the handle near the ricasso area for more durability and I'll post that if I do it. I have to order some black pigment that is compatible with the filler I will be using for the vine-pattern (which I hand-filed into the top of the tang). This will be one of the final steps of my knife before finishing but I have to wait for the pigment to get here.


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