Making first miller table Options

[burrell]

I'm starting to put together material for a aluminum miller table. What i would like to do is glue the Alu together. I've talked with some of my airplane friends and they came up with methacrylate 7350 a Parsons product which is suppose to be self etching. Small amounts of this stuff is hard to come by because of short shelf life. I plan to use Jasco prep&prime(need input)on the glued surfaces regaurdless of what ever adhesive i use. 5200 may work and i've used a lot of it in a marine environment and also glued some of Jens favorite shoe soles(doesn't take much) back together with it.I'm just concerned with the Alu oxidizing and coming a part at the glue seam (not nice). I really don't want to put fasteners in the bed of the table if possible. Any in put good or bad i will appreciate. The metal is on the way and should be here next week. Ordered by phone from discountsteel.com (Fort Worth Tx) for a better price than on line. It beats spending a day driving to Tallahassee and not ending up with what i need. In put on bed surface also, bondo autmotive primer chaulk board paint ect. Later i'll need some help with the math on the spray bar but that can wait. I'm going to keep for anyone relatively neat notes and drawings on this if it turns out well.
Burrell

[russau]

So passively watching this thread and I have questions and ideas. First is there any reason why the slate must be a continues piece why not just run two 12"x 12" tiles would a seem really make a difference. If so could you cascade from one tile to the next. Does it have to be slate? Why not run some wet / dry sand paper glued to a sheet of wood or aluminium. As for the spray bar why not run a height adjustable skim bar a few inches down from the sprayers if you want 1/8 inch of water set the bar at just under 1/8 inch and force the water under the bar, the other side should be quite smooth.

well the slate needs tobe continues peice to keep from fine gold getting traped in the seem.useing the slate (12x12)in a cascadeing layout sounds interesting, if you can keep the fine gold on the upper peice of slate. otherwise the descent from the upper to the lower slate would cause a distortion in the water and would keep the fine gold moveing downhill(IMHO)...ive never tried the wet/dry sand paper idea so i cant give a somewhat educated guess on its workability.my first Miller table was a alum. sluice with blackboard spray paint. it worked but the slate worked even better. and the painted surface needed tobe repainted eventually.and on the adjustable skim bar for the spray bar. i did this also to help smooth out my water flow, but if you get the water flow working correctly from the spray bar, you wont need it. mine is still there but its up/out of the way! it can cause turbulance if its not got a smooth lower edge and the water flow isnt to much. any distortion in the water flow will cause fine gold to move around and out off your table if any of the variables is to much. i like the workings of the table called the "black magic" it uses somesort of rubber surface instead of slate. a guy i know has one and really likes it.....but he has some $$ tied up in his and i had 0$ in mine. i dont like to buy equipment unless i HAVE TO!