Making first miller table Options

[burrell]

I'm starting to put together material for a aluminum miller table. What i would like to do is glue the Alu together. I've talked with some of my airplane friends and they came up with methacrylate 7350 a Parsons product which is suppose to be self etching. Small amounts of this stuff is hard to come by because of short shelf life. I plan to use Jasco prep&prime(need input)on the glued surfaces regaurdless of what ever adhesive i use. 5200 may work and i've used a lot of it in a marine environment and also glued some of Jens favorite shoe soles(doesn't take much) back together with it.I'm just concerned with the Alu oxidizing and coming a part at the glue seam (not nice). I really don't want to put fasteners in the bed of the table if possible. Any in put good or bad i will appreciate. The metal is on the way and should be here next week. Ordered by phone from discountsteel.com (Fort Worth Tx) for a better price than on line. It beats spending a day driving to Tallahassee and not ending up with what i need. In put on bed surface also, bondo autmotive primer chaulk board paint ect. Later i'll need some help with the math on the spray bar but that can wait. I'm going to keep for anyone relatively neat notes and drawings on this if it turns out well.
Burrell

[russau]

as far as the bed for your Miller table, ive tried the chaulk board paint and it does work but not near as good as useing actual slate.the paint will eventually chip/scratch and need tobe redone.ive made several slate Miller tables and i used ABS plastic for the main frame and glued it together.alum. is fine,and glueing it together is fine also,although im not familiar with this adhesive you have.the spary bar only needs to put just enough water on the surface to acheive an "mirror" flat flow without ANY ripples in the water!!and its depth could be only 1/8 inch deep.feed your screened cons slowly,very slowly!and let the water do its job.i found that the best results was to limit the amount of water onto the table.i dont like useing a valve because it raises the water pressure while lowering the water flow. NOT GOOD! use the smallest bilge pump you can find.depending on the size of your table,a 500 GPH or less is best.my first table was 24"wide and 48 " long of 3/8 inch thick slate with a alum. frame and 3/4 inch metal conduit for leggs. this was to heavy to bring with me to different states so i cut my slate down smaller and made several tables.i also like useing my homade auto feeder similar to Gats design that is posted here somewhere.this allows me to set it up run the material while im doing something else. the smart thing todo is ALWAYS rerun your material at a slower water flow to check your previous run.and another thing i like todo is PRIOR to my first or any run is i clean the slate of any priviously run material or clay. now lets see what youve come up with and some results! good luck!