That would be great! I'll have to do some digging on the site to find it. When I do, I'll state where it is here...
Thanks Russ!

So passively watching this thread and I have questions and ideas. First is there any reason why the slate must be a continues piece why not just run two 12"x 12" tiles would a seem really make a difference. If so could you cascade from one tile to the next. Does it have to be slate? Why not run some wet / dry sand paper glued to a sheet of wood or aluminium. As for the spray bar why not run a height adjustable skim bar a few inches down from the sprayers if you want 1/8 inch of water set the bar at just under 1/8 inch and force the water under the bar, the other side should be quite smooth.

All great ideas Andrew - that's why we call you "The Fabricator". And why we all want you on our team. I found the thread for Gat's Auto-Feeder. It's in "DIY Auotfeeder For Blue Bowl?" in the Equipment, Prospecting and Lapidary forum. Swizz started the topic.

I think the two 12x12 tiles is a great idea, and should be easy to get. I can picture what you mean by the skim bar, and I do think that is very workable without adding too much complication. I will have to get with you and draw it out.

Thanks!

well the slate needs tobe continues peice to keep from fine gold getting traped in the seem.useing the slate (12x12)in a cascadeing layout sounds interesting, if you can keep the fine gold on the upper peice of slate. otherwise the descent from the upper to the lower slate would cause a distortion in the water and would keep the fine gold moveing downhill(IMHO)...ive never tried the wet/dry sand paper idea so i cant give a somewhat educated guess on its workability.my first Miller table was a alum. sluice with blackboard spray paint. it worked but the slate worked even better. and the painted surface needed tobe repainted eventually.and on the adjustable skim bar for the spray bar. i did this also to help smooth out my water flow, but if you get the water flow working correctly from the spray bar, you wont need it. mine is still there but its up/out of the way! it can cause turbulance if its not got a smooth lower edge and the water flow isnt to much. any distortion in the water flow will cause fine gold to move around and out off your table if any of the variables is to much. i like the workings of the table called the "black magic" it uses somesort of rubber surface instead of slate. a guy i know has one and really likes it.....but he has some $$ tied up in his and i had 0$ in mine. i dont like to buy equipment unless i HAVE TO!

l's table,Just watched the youtube vid on the Black Majic table - I like the idea of slate better. I do want to see more pic's of Burrell's table. How is it coming along? Do you have it working yet? You got a great thread going, then we kinda hijacked it. Sorry about that. We would like your opinions on this too.

Thanks!

Cman I'll get more pic up . I have to learn how to resize to under 4.0 for the forum. When i get to the spray bar i will probably late it directly on the bed. Thanking about sanding bottom edge of pvc fittings so there won't be much open drip space between bar and bed. With as low of water pressure that will be in spray bar this shouldn't a problem if i sand too much off of the fitings and glue will plug leaks witch may not even need patching. As is now i have a solid cap on end of spray and i'm thanking a threaded plug would be better in case trash plugs bar holes. I've also thought about using clear tubing but it has a membery in a coiled up state needs to be straight. Its still going to be a while before i can work more on the table.

No problem, I'm glad to hear that it coming along. I just found a pice of 12"x24" piece of slate at A World of Tile. Color is "Montauk Black", and is a guaged wall/floor tile, so it is about 1/4" thick. The surface is natural finish (not honed) but very flat - no ridges. I think it will work fine as is, but I will sand it down if I have to - it won't take much. I should have it done by summer. I will start a different thread when I get it started. Thanks for the inspiration!

thanks for the heads up on the tile! if there is different colors ava. green would be a real good choice because it will show any blacksand left on the slate and black will hide it and any gold thats still under the black sands. but the gold specks will "pop" on the black surface...

The color when wet is more blue/grey. Black sand shows up on it very well, and the gold in it popped right out - Yeppers, I tested it when I got it home, and I'm surprised at what I missed in the -50 concentrete. I can't wait to build the table and run it

Played with the table some today. Things seem to be working out some what. Spray bar will need a lot of attention. Holes may be to small but kinda figured on that i can make them bigger. Had the by pass valve closed and quirted water all over me and our dog. She broke camp and wouldn't have anything to do with me for a while. Cman your in for a treat as you get into this project. I'm just as much in the blind as you are. I've never seen one of these other than pictures. Spray bar is to high as is. I'll put bigger holes in it but think i will still have a dripping problem. Wraped a rag around it and got water down onto the table. Adjusted the valves some and looked good. put a couple of hand full of dirt on it and it cleaned off nicely. The excess caulking at the rails needs to be cleaned better. It was causing a ripple at every piece to angle out away from the rail. May have to live with that some how. All in all happy with how its going. Didn't take pictures today but will try to get some more up soon.

on one of my first tables i made a chamber for the spray bars water and placed a peice of sponge in there to reduce/flaten the waters flow and to help prevent any distortion of the waters surface. as long as i got that sponge saturated with water and remove all of the air from it, it worked fine. maybe try that.

I had thought about a sponge. I'll check with some the commercial sponge divers and see what they can come up with on hollow sponges. Its a drive over that way so it'll be a while on that. Going to play with bigger holes and make another bar to lay on the bed. The coupling housing on the fitting are close to 1/8" +- and i'm hoping get closer to calm water. I cut some elbows down on the couplings trying to shorten pipe turns in the tubing. That will work as long as i get a square cut on the tube. I added a piece of angle under and at the bottom end of table. that stopped water from rolling up under the bottom a couple of inchs. Alot to still work with.

I will probably start on mine this summer, after I get some of my chores done at the cabin. One of which is chinking it. I'll post when I start it.

maybe have a chinking party with a bunch of friends??? no reason you cant have some fun while doing it!